Fixing Keyboards by Rolf Miller I recently acquired a 128 from one who gave up Commodore use in favor of a bigger PC. To be fair, switching in some instances is logical. But it didn't make sense to me in this case. The user is now wrestling with learning the new machine to accomplish exactly the same work previously done with the Commodore. When I come to possess cast-off equipment, checking it out is the next order of business. Hooking up this machine quickly revealed an all but nonfunctioning keyboard. In other words, the previous user is now learning how to make that bigger PC do what he could no longer get done on his Commodore. I don't know about you, but the joy of using my Commodores is directly related to how well the keyboard works. So I can understand the frustration this keyboard must have caused. What I don't understand is why the user didn't either clean it or install a replacement. Cleaning a keyboard is not particularly difficult. Yes, it does involve some soldering and fussing with a zillion little tiny screws. But in spite of that, it can be accomplished in a couple of hours. However, keyboard surgery is not the only choice available. Excellent working used C128 keyboards can be had for $29, including priority mail shipping to a U.S. address. Likewise, a C64 keyboard is $19. A C64C keyboard is $24 (note that a C64 keyboard with its dark keys can be used in place of the white C64C keyboard). Cleaning or replacing a keyboard requires opening up the computer. So flip it over and remove the securing screws (3 on the 64, 6 on the 128). Turn it upright and separate the top case by lifting from the front (the C64C and 128 may need some careful prying, and the 128 has a grounding strap attached to the keyboard which needs to be removed from the motherboard). Unplug the keyboard along with the power light. Unscrew the keyboard (on the original 64 and 128, it is attached to the top case, and make note of how the power light on the 128 is secured.) If replacing the keyboard, just exchange it, plug things back in, and button up. To clean it, unsolder the shift lock key on the 64 and additionally the caps lock and 40/80 column switches on the 128 (or just cut the wires close to the solder). Then remove all those little Phillips screws and lift the back off. It looks like a printed circuit board with little pads. A two-pronged carbonized rubber foot connected to the key shaft makes contact with these pads when pressed. If a key needs replacing, do it now. The keys consists of a key cap, a small spring, and the afore mentioned key shaft with carbonized rubber foot attached. To remove a key, pull the cap off (it may require a little carefully prying up) and remove the rest of it from the keyboard. Replace the necessary parts and reassemble. (Discarded keyboards are a good source for parts.) Clean all of the pads on the board with a cotton cloth and 91% isopropyl alcohol (not rubbing alcohol -- it leaves a film). On the 64, the pads should appear shiny. On the 128, the pads are covered with carbonized rubber and should appear dull. Then carefully wipe all the carbon feet on the keys till any shine is gone. Do not use sand paper or other abrasives on either the pads or the key feet. Wisdom suggests testing the results before reassembling everything. So, do enough screws to hold the board securely, and on the 128 resolder the 40/80 key. Then plug the keyboard in, turn on, and press EVERY key. Note any key that needs work. If recleaning does not solve the problem, rub a little black pencil lead on both the contact pads and the two prongs of feet. (From Homestead Commodore http://cbm.videocam.net.au/homestead/)