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Dick's Adventures of 2017 - Part 4 |
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2017
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Part 5 2017 Part 6 |
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McKenzie
Preserve Herding Cats & Hiking
Highway 33
San Joaquin Gorge with Linda &
Anne Edison Point Trail
Hot Hike at the Gorge
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McKenzie
Preserve
When you
travel on Auberry Road, around 20 miles from Fresno you will notice
a long series of table top mountains north of the road. The San
Joaquin River lies on the other side, and the tables are in fact the
ancient bed of the river.
Seeing a
sight like this of course makes you want to get up on top, but until
recently I believed that all of it was private property and
inaccessible. However, it turns out that a part of it is open to the
public on a limited basis. This is the Ruth McKenzie
Preserve,
administered by the Sierra
Foothill Conservancy. This organization
conducts guided hikes in a number of foothill areas in Fresno,
Madera and Mariposa Counties, including a six-mile round trip to the
top of McKenzie Table.
Reservations
are required, and hikers must stick together with the guide. Looking at the schedule, I could see that the mileage and the time
allotted put most of these hikes beyond my capacity. They go two
miles in an hour; I take two hours to go a mile. However, once in a
while they have an "open day" at McKenzie, when visitors
can wander at their own pace. One of these events was scheduled for
April 1.
My daughter
Teri shares my fascination with this area, and she has created a
private Facebook Page, Sierra Nevada and Foothills Hiking Group. Via
this medium, she invited friends and friends of friends to join us
at the preserve on April 1, and shortly after 9 a.m. on that date, a
group of nine arrived at the location in several cars.
This
included Teri's mother, Jackie, several women I've hiked with
previously, and some who were new to the group and more or less new
to this type of exercise. However, we were all undaunted as usual,
and soon Kristi,
Jessica, Laura, Dick, Teri,
Jackie, Sandy, Monica, and Emily were strung out along the trail in
groups of two to four, marveling at the dramatic
cliffs atop the table mountains, pausing to study
flowers large and small, and just enjoying the wonders of this low
foothill domain.
Although
hiking this day was not organized, the Preserve was, and in a very
useful way. First, there was a man at the entry of the parking area
who guided us into a spot. With one car after another arriving at
the 9 a.m. opening time, I wondered if there was room for everyone,
but he told me later that they have had 75 cars there, and 67 came
in this time. Without guidance, you could never get that many
vehicles into the space available.
A
short distance from the parking area was the entry table, where we
signed in and received a guidebook which explained features at a
series of numbered posts along the way. We also signed out when we
returned, since the area is fenced and locked up at the end of the
day, and they wanted everyone out safely. To everyone's relief,
there were port-a-potties at three locations in the first quarter
mile, one near a gathering spot that also had picnic tables.
Several
of the women took turns reading the descriptions from the guide
book, at least one of them enhancing the story with her own entirely
false but humorous fable about bobcats making their den at the base
of "blue pines." What was real included a dead
oak, the oldest in the preserve, that looked as if it had been
through every storm for the past 500 years. We were also glad to
find ourselves walking beside a little creek, which eventually
crosses Auberry Road and joins Little Dry Creek. In one place it had
dozens of tadpoles,
and one large granite outcropping boasted a number of bedrock
mortars. One of our party had been told that each inch of depth
in the hole represents 100 years of use, which would mean some were
used for up to 400 years. Since there were people in this area as
long as 8,000 years ago, these artifacts could be considered
"modern."
Not
far from this point the guidebook directed us to the site of an old
ranch cabin, about 100 yards off the trail. A few of us walked over,
and were able to observe a level area with rocks across the front as
part of an old embankment. This area also provided the perfect
"Teri
on the rock" photo opportunity.
The
trail is actually an old ranch road, which climbed very gently for
two miles from an elevation of 700 feet to 1,000. At this point it joins the
roadbed of the San
Joaquin and Eastern Railroad, built in 1912. The rails are long
gone, but the roadway is still in good condition, and is nearly
level. The trail follows the old road for a little more than a mile. Along the way we stopped where a little
creek crossed the road, found nice sitting rocks, and enjoyed our
lunch. The day was warm and the elevation low, so we welcomed the
shade.
The
site of our lunch stop was also the trailhead for the Boling Gap Trail, which takes hikers
to the top of the table
mountain. Since this would have been a six mile round trip, our
group had already decided to limit our efforts to the four-mile Discovery
Trail.
This
wouldn't be a Dick Estel report without a mention of wildflowers,
and we saw a lot of them. What we are seeing this year is a lot of
different species, although there are not a lot of solid fields of
color. With the exception of milkweed, just budding out, all the
flowers we saw were ones I had spotted elsewhere earlier this
spring.
Traveling
along the railroad bed, we passed several ponds containing more
tadpoles, and also saw few very tiny frogs at the edge, including
some that had not fully lost their tails. Other wildlife included ground
squirrels, lizards, ravens, and a pair of redtail hawks that
flew over the parking lot just after our return.
Although
the elevation change was minimal, it was particularly noticeable on
the final stretch of the trail, which dropped down 300 feet in about
a half mile from the railroad to the parking area.
Flowers
seen included birds eye
gilia, ground lupines budded but not blooming, bush lupine
in one area, fringed redmaids, lots of popcorn flowers and filaree,
quite a few fiddlenecks and blue dicks, purple clover, yellow clover,
unidentified 10-petal pink flowers, daisy-like blossoms, a few baby blue eyes right at
the start,
buck brush, yellow brodiaea, and milkweed.
Although
some parts of the trail presented a challenge for a couple members
of our party, everyone is looking forward to getting out on another
trail soon.
--Dick Estel, April 2017
McKenzie
Preserve Photos |
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Herding
Cats & Hiking
There
are a few paragraphs before you get to the hiking, but please bear
with me. My younger daughter Jennifer is a teacher, and she and
husband Rod like to go to Tahoe during spring break. They have four
cats that need a baby sitter during these trips. For many years
Rod's brother Ron handled this duty, but he retired last year, and
my other daughter Teri and I have taken over.
One of the
perks of this job is staying at their house, on five acres north of
Oakhurst. This means we are half way to Yosemite, and very close to
other hiking and recreation areas. When Teri was there last year,
she hiked one day with her mother and the next day with
me. This time any hiking I did would be solo.
I had a
computer club meeting Sunday morning, April 9, and left from there
about 2 p.m. for the hour drive to Rod & Jennifer's. Actually it
took longer than an hour, since I stopped for photos a couple of
places. The first one was by an ancient dead blue oak along Highway
41 about 25 miles north of Fresno. This tree is a favorite of
regular travelers on this route, and has been called the Dinosaur,
the Bird and the Dragon by different observers. Several years ago,
when Caltrans built
passing lanes along this area and put fencing around the tree to
protect it, a bunch of uninformed people with computers started a
hysterical Facebook campaign to "save" the tree, which
was the agency's plan in the first place. This area is the very
beginning of the foothills, and with everything still green, gave me
some excellent photo
opportunities.
My other
stop was at a big turnout on the grade going down Deadwood Mountain
just above Oakhurst. There is a great view from here of the basin
where the town is located, as well as parts of the Sierra. The
dominating feature seen here is Shuteye
Peak, an 8,000 foot dome
with a fire lookout on top. There's a four wheel drive road to the
top, and I've been up there a few times.
When I got
to the Neely place, I received a cautious greeting from Jasper, their
newest family member. She stayed about six feet away from me for the
first hour, then decided I was acceptable. After that I could pet
her, pick her up, and carry her around any time I wanted. Things
were not as friendly with the other two indoor-outdoor cats, Pebbles
and Bam Bam. In the two years or so they've been part of the
household, I have never been able to pet them, and rarely see them.
Bam Bam ventured out from under the bed, watched me from ten feet
away, and beat a hasty retreat when I took a step toward him.
The fourth
cat, Hombre, the "old man" of the group, has known me for
years, and will accept petting if he's in the mood. He lives outside
(with garage access) due to a bad habit of spraying in the house.
There is also another "visitor" cat, Garfield, who is a
bully and skittish, but not shy about eating available food.
The big challenge with this job is to try and get the three
indoor-outdoor cats inside for the night, although they have all spent nights
outdoors in the past. I thought I would accomplish this when Pebbles
came to the door, but would not come in. I had just set down the
plate of wet food the cats get every evening, and it was obvious she
wanted her share.
I devised a
fool-proof plan to get her in. I would disappear from sight through
the kitchen, out through the garage, come around the patio and close
the sliding door while she was enjoying supper. Unfortunately she
had other ideas, and as soon as she realized I was approaching the
patio door, she
ran out, accompanied by Bam Bam. Neither of them came inside again
the entire three days I was there.
However,
they still got fed. The dry food dish in the garage is kept supplied
for Hombre, and the others are known to dine there sometimes. Rod
and Jen normally put any leftover wet food outside at night, and
whoever comes by can eat it. Hopefully Pebbles and Bam Bam got most
of it during my stay.
So where's
the hiking, you may ask? I had already decided that I would
definitely go to Corlieu
Falls, on the Lewis
Creek Trail, a place I have written about several times previously.
The trail starts on Highway 41 about five miles past Road 620 (the
turnoff to Jennifer's), so a short drive for me this time. A few
hundred yards in, the trail divides and goes north to another,
smaller falls and eventually to the community of Sugar Pine, while
the other fork goes downstream past Corlieu Falls and eventually
into Cedar Valley, another small mountain residential area.
The distance
from road to the falls is only about a quarter mile, but the trail
is very steep in places, and mature hikers such as myself are well
advised to use poles. I arrived at the trailhead around 9:40 a.m.,
the first car at the trailhead, although another vehicle arrived
before I got on the trail.
The falls is
a series of
cascades, between 80 and 100 feet high, and with the
heavy rain and snow this year, it is roaring. The trail is lined
with big cedar and ponderosa pine trees, as well as
live oaks and
many other smaller trees and bushes. There were a few
flowers, but the big attraction here is the
water.
After
enjoying the falls and taking photos from the viewing platform, I
continued down to where the trail and creek start a gentle descent
toward the ocean, and walked maybe a quarter mile or so. By this
time other hikers had come down the trail, and as I passed the falls
on my way out, two groups arrived, totaling at least 25 people. It
was time to head for a less populated area.
I drove back
down Highway 41 and turned east on Sky Ranch Road, barely a half
mile from Road 620. This is the route to Nelder Grove, and my plan
was to drive on this paved road to the dirt road that goes toward
Nelder, and go as far as seemed wise, considering the possibility of
muddy spots. After a short distance this road crosses California
Creek, probably about two miles downstream from where it runs
through the Nelder Grove Campground. This is where Teri and I camped
in
November. I was barely off the pavement when I came to a very
wet, muddy section, and usually this means there is worse ahead, so
I turned around and parked at the road junction.
I walked
down an old logging road that Teri and I had walked on, and
eventually made my way over to the creek where the water goes over a
small falls. It was just a gentle stream in November, but this time
I was delighted to see that it had become a roaring
cascade. There were several small patches of snow
in this area. I
started following the route upstream toward our camp site, but was
soon stopped by an endless series of marshy areas, where water was
running out from a meadow. When I backtracked and followed the trail
that we had walked on coming out of the meadow previously, it
disappeared into several inches of
water. I turned around once
again, and made my way back to the car on the old logging road.
Although I could not get everywhere I had wanted, I was
well-satisfied with this second adventure of the day.
I had
intended to hike again the next day, but it was very cold and windy
in the morning, so I ended up staying around the property. I did do
quite a bit of walking, exploring parts of their five acre plot that
I had never been on before. When they first moved in, Rod built a
rough trail that goes in a loop around part of the property, and I
walked on that several times. I also explored "The
Drainage." The property, like most of the foothills, did not
have any level spots, so a building pad was bulldozed out, creating
a steep hill just west of the house. Runoff from higher up had
created a drainage below this spot, which is now a typical foothill
landscape of brush, wildflowers, and
trees. Although they have been
there since about 2005, I had never gone down in the drainage until
a few weeks earlier, when I went with grandson Johnny and great
grandson Colton. At that time I did not really explore the area, so
in between cat monitoring duties, I made my way down several times. It's
steep enough that I made sure to take my hiking poles, and I went
downstream as far as I could go without crawling through brush, then
back up and out the other side, a climb almost as steep. On one of
these excursions, Jasper accompanied me the entire way. Eventually I
discovered a place along the trail where it was just a very short
hike down to the bottom, and went in that way twice.
About a mile
down Road 620 from their driveway, a private paved road goes up the
hill to a place that was subdivided several years ago, but never
sold. There is a paved turnaround that is becoming overgrown with
Yerba Santa, which has the ability to push right up through the
asphalt. From here an old dirt road goes steeply up the mountain and
loops around. I had ridden with Rod and Jen on this road in their
Jeep years ago, but had never walked it, so I made the short hike up
and down that area for the first time. It's a very attractive spot,
with some big manzanita bushes and black oak trees leafing out, and
it's a mystery why no one has bought any of the lots there. Perhaps
the price was too much.
There were
many of the usual foothill flowers in the places I walked, including
dove lupines, tall blue ground lupines, filaree, blue dicks, popcorn
flowers, fiddleneck, manzanita, white thorn, clover, various unknown
species, and the rare pink and yellow harlequin
lupines, which I
have seen in only four places over my seven decades of wandering in
these hills. Both live oak and black oak were covered with their
blossoms, known as catkins,
thicker than I have ever seen them.
When I was
not hiking, exploring, herding cats or sleeping, I was eating -
sometimes at the house and sometimes at a restaurant in Oakhurst.
Rod and Jennifer have typically thanked their cat-sitters with gift
certificates to local restaurants, so on Monday I tried Southgate
Brewing Company, a fairly new brewpub. I had a very good
sandwich, and my
annual beer. On Tuesday my destination was Pete's
Place, where I
have eaten a number of times with the Neely's and with the Ramblers.
I normally eat a good, late breakfast, and have my main meal between
three and four p.m. When I arrived at Pete's, I found that it was
closed. Checking the sign on the wall, I saw that the place closes
at 2 p.m. Monday and Tuesday. I decided to stop there on my way home
Wednesday afternoon, but again the doors were locked. This time I
saw the OTHER sign on the door that listed winter closing time as 2
p.m. Monday through Friday. I was tempted to leave a note pointing
out that winter had ended over two weeks earlier, but instead I
decided to just head for Clovis and have a later than usual lunch at
the Colorado Grill.
Although I
did not get in as much hiking as I had wanted, I walked just about
every place on the property that is accessible, enjoyed seeing
flowers, trees leafing out, bushes in bloom, and of course hanging
out with my new buddy, Jasper.
--Dick Estel, April 2017
Herding
& Hiking Photos
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Highway
33
I
don't have a lot to say about this trip, but I took some nice photos
I'd like to share. On April 24 through 26 I attended a conference in
Ventura, representing the Retired Employees of Fresno County (REFCO).
My grandparents lived there from around 1940 to 1965, and we made
many trips to visit when I was a kid, so I was interested to see how
it had changed. But the part I was most looking forward to was
driving home up State Highway
33, which runs north from Ventura
through the Los
Padres National Forest, and comes back into the San
Joaquin Valley at the little oil town of Maricopa in western Kern
County.
I
drove down CA 99 and I-5 to Castaic Junction (on the edge of Santa
Clarita), then west on State 126. Much of the route across to
Ventura is still pretty rural, with citrus and other crops. Two of
the towns along the way, Piru and Fillmore, are small, but Santa Paula
has grown to 30,000 people or so. Past this point, the road becomes
a freeway and merges smoothly into US 101 coming in from the
south.
I’ve been through Ventura
more recently than 1965, although I can’t recall exactly when, so
I knew that Highway 101 was a busy freeway, and that the town had
grown from 25,000 or so in the middle of the 20th century
to 105,000 today. However, the exits off the freeway were familiar
names, and I had a good idea where they would go.
The conference was in a hotel right on the beach, and very close to
the pier, where we always came when we visited. Now there is a long
concrete walkway along the beach, with access by steep stairs in a
number of places. It’s easily accessible from the hotel, and I
walked along parts of it several times.
Wednesday,
the last day of the conference, was a short business meeting. I got
everything loaded up and checked out before the meeting, and when it
ended around 11 a.m., I got back on Route 101 and drove north a
short distance to the Highway 33 exit. The first few miles are
freeway, but once it leaves the city, it becomes a two-lane route
the rest of the way. It passes through the small city of Ojai,
population 7,600, and beyond that there's really no development for
the next 70 miles. And these are slow, scenic miles, a 90-minute
drive according to Google, and longer for someone in sight-seeing
mode like me.
Before
long the road enters a very narrow canyon, Wheeler Gorge. I stopped
for a while at a campground
by this name, the last outpost of civilization for much of the
route. Beyond the campground the road is a series of switchbacks, climbing
up steeply, and I was soon
up to 3,000 feet, having started my journey about ten feet above the
ocean. There are quire a few flowers along the highway, the most
common being a bush that ranged from three to eight feet in height,
covered with bright yellow
flowers. At various places I also saw
blue dicks, yucca, lupines, poppies, and lots of the variety of
chaparral that has blue
blossoms.
There
are plenty of places to pull off the road, and I made many stops.
These mountains are rugged, covered with brush and small plants, and
look to be fairly dry. At higher elevations there were a few
evergreens that were not familiar to me. These were usually
concentrated on the shady side of steep drainages. At the highest
point there were a few fairly large trees.
Two
of my stopping points stood out, the first being an old building
whose purpose was not apparent, surrounded by a chain link fence.
The second was a rock formation that appeared to be weathered light
brown sandstone, and looked as if it could have been transplanted
from the Colorado Plateau country of Utah. I also noted a couple of
trailheads along the road, something to consider if I run our of
places to hike closer to home.
I
did not see any elevation signs after 3,000 feet, so I was somewhat
surprised when I arrived at Pine Mountain Summit and found that I
was above 5,100. The view from this point was a jumbled landscape of
mountains and canyons, dotted with small bushes and with
sections of
open rock. When I got out of the car for photos, there was a very
strong wind, and it was quite cool. Going north over the pass took
me into the Cuyama River watershed, and eventually I dropped down
into the valley of the same name, where there were crops and
ranching activity. Looking out
from the pass, I realized I was still
quite a good distance from my lunch stop at Maricopa.
I
also got a geography lesson on this drive. Starting in Ventura
County, I drove across a corner of Santa Barbara County and into San
Luis Obispo County. When the road turned east to take me to
Maricopa, it entered Kern County somewhere along the way without
benefit of a sign. I experienced a wide range of temperatures on
this drive - 84 at Wheeler Gorge Camp, below 2,000 feet; 69 at 4,000
feet, 58 at Pine Mountain Summit, and back to 84 at Maricopa.
After
eating lunch at the Subway in Maricopa, I had planned to follow
Highway 33 all the way to the junction with Highway 41, just west of
Kettleman City. After a short time, I found myself behind slow farm
trucks, and wished I had just gone east to Highway 99, which is freeway
all the way. Apparently my GPS felt the same - after a few turns
that seemed to be taking me away from 33, I realized that I was
approaching 99 about half way between Bakersfield and Delano. From
there it was a fast and easy ride back home.
--Dick Estel, May 2017
Highway
33 Photos |
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San
Joaquin Gorge Bridge with Linda & Anne
I've been
hoping to go to the San
Joaquin Gorge two or three more times this
year, but a busy schedule delayed my latest visit until warm weather
arrived. I still plan to go again, but I am prepared for it to be
hot.
My sister,
Linda and her wife Anne came from Duluth MN for a visit the last
week of April and on the 30th I took them for their first visit to
the Gorge. They are not novice hikers by any means, but most of
their recent walking was on relatively flat trails in southern
Florida, where they spent the winter. Well, they spent OUR winter
there; in Duluth there was an ice storm the day after they left, and
six inches of snow fell there while we were enjoying a clear, sunny
California day.
It was a
Sunday, so there were a lot of people on the trail, including more
bicyclists than usual. The parking lot had one space available when
we arrived. The car next to us left, and that spot was immediately
taken.
We went down
the Bridge
Trail, which is a little over two miles round trip,
mostly down going in, and mostly up coming out. It was warm, but
there was a nice breeze much of the time, and the weather was quite
pleasant for me; perhaps a bit warmer than residents of northern
Minnesota would have preferred.
There is
still a surprising variety of wildflowers, although very few huge
masses. The late-season mustang clover and daisy-like
common madia
were the dominant blossoms, but some of the very early season
flowers still lingered, including popcorn flowers, blue dicks, baby blue eyes, and
fiddlenecks. Ground lupines and Chinese houses were getting a good start, and there
were purple
vetch, birds eye gillia, foothill gillia and yellow-throated gillia.
By the trail there was a scattering of farewell-to-spring, but we saw large
masses of them on the banks of the road in several places. The
pale yellow harvest brodiaea were common along half the trail, and we saw a single
purple brodiaea and several climbing brodiaea. Finally, among the
rocks just past the bridge were large numbers of yellow poppies. Owl
clover is often thick along trails in this location, but we saw only
a few plants. Elderberry and buckeye bushes are starting to bloom.
Although it
is very warm and dry compared to earlier this year, there were still
three creeks running across the trail.
We rested
and had a snack at the
bridge, and I walked up the trail another 100
yards or so, looking for a flower that had appeared there two years
ago, but they were not in evidence - either too early, too late, or
conditions were not right.
We had
talked about stopping for lunch at Velasco's in Prather on our way
home, but we got a better offer - a taco dinner at my daughter
Teri's house. We had all got together at grandson Johnny's on
Friday, then on Saturday Teri went with us to daughter Jennifer's place in
Oakhurst, so just about everyone in the family got to see each
other. Linda and Anne were heading for
Yosemite and Mariposa the next day, then back to San Francisco for
their flight home, hopefully taking some of our warm weather with
them.
--Dick Estel, May 2017
Bridge
Trail Photos |
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Edison
Point Trail
With spring
rapidly turning to summer, based not on the calendar, but rather on
weather, I've been trying to schedule one more hike at several of my
favorite foothill areas. One of these was the Edison
Point Trail at
Pine Flat Reservoir, a place I've hiked and written about several
times, and this was my destination on May 2.
With
temperatures at home pushing up toward 90, I knew that it would be
warm and probably fairly dry at this location, less than 1,000 feet
in elevation. Therefore I was glad to see that there was still a lot
of green grass along the road as I got near the lake. On the
eastern slope of the hills along this route, the grass was decorated
with hundreds of yellow daisy-like flowers, probably common
madia. Once I got by the lake, there were some good patches of
pink color on the steep hillsides and on the road bank, created by a
very good bloom of farewell-to-spring. This flower does not care
that calendar spring started only ten days earlier.
Although it
is not very long, the full Edison Point loop trail is fairly
challenging, and I was pretty sure it would be even more so this
year due to heavy rains. Therefore I planned to hike in the
"wrong" way, or counter clockwise, hoping to see the thick
stands of purple brodiaea that had been so spectacular the previous
two years, and then retrace my steps. It was immediately clear that
my concerns about the trail were well-founded. It is badly
overgrown, and it was hard to find where it went in places. During
the wet season, cows had walked on the trail, creating deep, lumpy
sections that were difficult to hike on. And of course, there were the
bull pines.
When we
hiked this trail in the past, we had to struggle up the steep slope
then back down to get around several pines that had fallen across
the trail. This time there were two or three new deadfalls to
challenge my hiking skills. However, as always I was undaunted, and
soon reached the shady drainages were the brodiaea were thick in the
past. They were indeed there this year - but every single plant had
gone to seed.
However,
there are always flowers, and the best and biggest display on this
hike were the Mariposa
lilies, one of nature's finest floral
designs. There were dozens and dozens along the trail where I
walked, and more to come later. Purple vetch was thick in spots, and
I saw one faded blossom on a yellow brodiaea plant and a couple of buttercup
flowers. As on other
recent hikes, some of the earliest flowers continue to have a
presence, including fiddlenecks, filaree, and poppies. There was
also a spot with quite a few climbing
brodiaea, a vine-like variety
of this species that twists around grass, brush and each other, with
stems that can be five or six feet in length.
Despite the
poor condition of the trail, I reached my intended goal, the upper
bench. not to be confused with a bench near the water line in the
middle of the loop. The bench had fiddlenecks, purple vetch,
phecelia and
grass growing up through the mesh seat, making sort of a natural
cushion, so I rested there and enjoyed views of the lake and the many
foothill trees, looking healthy after getting well watered in
January and February.
The round
trip distance to this spot was barely three quarters of a mile, and
on the way out I started thinking about where I could go for another
short hike. Once I got back to the trailhead, my brain began to
function properly, and I realized I could just walk in on the other
end of the trail (clockwise), and go the half mile out to Edison
Point itself, walking on the dirt service road that provides access
to the power transmission line that runs along the lake.
I got out my
chair, ate an orange and rested, then began part two of the day's
hike. This section is easy and short, and goes about a half mile to
a point where you can see the lake on three sides. There's an
electrical transmission tower there, and a cluster of oak trees with
some rocks underneath, providing a shady place to sit and rest. Once
I ventured off the road to the knoll, I was again walking through
tall grass. As I approached my chosen sitting rock, I poked into the
grass all around it with a hiking pole, just to alert any
rattlesnakes of my presence. I sat there and ate my peanut butter
sandwich, enjoying the view and a cool breeze.
Once
again the frequent flowers in this section of the trail were
Mariposa lilies. There were literally hundreds of them peeking
up above the grass on both sides of the road. As far as I can
recall, I have never seen so many in a small area in my life.
Although in some areas in years past I have seen purple ones and
yellow ones, all those I've spotted in my later hiking years have
been the white ones. However, there was one plant, possibly a
mutant, that had a broad section of pink across the middle
horizontal half of each
petal. There is also a short stretch of the trail lined with blazing
star, a tall, stickery-looking plant with spectacular yellow
flowers about four inches across. The only other places I've seen
these flowers is along Trimmer Springs Road, and in Sequoia National
Forest between the Grant Grove and Cedar Grove sections of Kings
Canyon National Park.
There
were of course other flowers, including a few poppies, a small patch
of lupines, thistles, clover, milkweed,
and an unidentified white
flower that almost looks like a dandelion seed head until you
bend over and take a closer look.
Although
I did not see the flowers that had brought me to this location, I
was well satisfied with the Mariposa lilies and other flowers. The
total hike was only 1.72 miles, but I felt I got in a lot of
exercise working my way up and down the hill to get around the
fallen trees. Considering the condition of the lower section of the
trail, I would probably not hike it again nor recommend it to others
until there has been some serious maintenance work.
--Dick Estel, May 2017
Edison
Point Photos
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Previous
Edison Point Hikes |
Ramblers
2015 Point Only |
Solo
Loop Hike 2015 |
Ramblers
Loop Hike 2016 |
Loop
with Teri & Monica 2016 |
Solo
Point Only 2017 |
Point
Only with Janell 2017 |
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Hot
Hike at the Gorge
With a record rain year,
foothill hiking has been spectacular. On the other hand, rainy days
have prevented some planned hikes and made it hard to get in as many
outings as I had wanted. Undaunted as always, I went to the San
Joaquin River Gorge
on May 9 for the seventh time this year, and hiked the San Joaquin
River Trail. I've written about this trail enough times that I'll
just quickly mention that it is the upper end of a 12-mile trek that
starts at Finegold Picnic Area, next to Sky Harbor on Millerton
Lake.
With temperatures having
recently hit 100 degrees in the valley, and climbing back up after a
brief cool-down and light rain, I expected hot and dry conditions.
The lower foothills have turned brown, and higher up, it's about
half and half. On the San Joaquin River Trail, averaging 1,000 feet
in elevation, there was quite a bit of
green, although much of it
was tall, late season plants, not grass. It was obvious that going
off-trail would result in socks and boot laces full of stickers.
When I arrived at the
parking lot, there was just one other car there. When I finished my
hike,
there were two other vehicles, but I didn't see another person at
the trailhead or on my trail.
Based on a hike in
May
last year, I expected a fair number of certain flowers, but there
were very few along the first half mile. After that they started to
appear - not only the late season varieties, but plenty of others
too. In fact, of all the flowers I've seen on the trails in 2017, all
but a very few were still represented during this hike, although in
very small numbers.
The big show belonged to
farewell-to-spring, which created a few
bright pink patches on the
slopes nearby, and were plentiful along the trail. They were also
out in great quantities along the main roads on the way to the
Gorge. Next in number were the Athurial's
spears, a variety of
brodiaea that looks very much like the lighter purple variety that
grow in cool, shady areas. These are a darker purple, and grow amid the
dry grass, making a nice color contrast. And in a few places mustang
clover was plentiful.
The other outstanding
flower display, and a special treat, was provided by Mariposa
lilies. For the first time in maybe 20 years, I saw the yellow
variety of this beautiful flower, and in fairly good quantities. The
more common white variety was also blooming along the trail, usually
intermixed with the yellow. On the road into the Gorge I saw a lot
of yellow or harvest brodiaea, and patches of a tall, spike-like
white flower. We saw one of these down by the bridge on my late
April hike with Linda and Anne.
It was 72 degrees when I
started, and close to 80 when I returned, so with the exertion of
walking, I was getting out my bandana and wiping the sweat from my
forehead fairly often. The uphill sections on the return walk seemed
more tiring than usual, probably due to the temperature. There was a
welcome breeze at times, but it was inconsistent.
The app I use to measure
my walks has been flaky lately, so I was trying a new one, which has
not proved to be all that great so far. I have another one which
seems to work OK, but is not nearly as elegant as my favorite. I
used all three, and each one gave me a slightly different reading,
ranging from 2.57 to 2.7 miles. Dilemma: Should I claim the average,
or just assume that the longest is correct?
Despite the dryness,
there were still ten running creeks along the section I walked, some
of them complete with butterflies. Two
were barely trickling, but the others all had a true flow of
water. Since all of these creeks start around 2,000 feet or
lower, it's likely that most of them will be dry in another month.
Despite
the warm, dry conditions, I was glad I made this final spring hike.
There are a few late season flowers that don't come out till May,
and it was eye-opening to see how many early
season flowers were still blooming in small numbers.
Along
Auberry Road on the way to the Gorge, there are several places where
you can see the "back" side of Squaw Leap Table Mountain,
which is to say, the side opposite the Gorge. I've been wanting to
take a photo from that angle, but could not find a place to pull
over safely. I stopped at the US Forest Service station in Prather
to get a fire permit, and as I walked back to my car, I realized I
was looking across the parking lot right at Squaw Leap, so I finally
got my
photo.
For
my own reference, and you can read it if you want, I recorded this
list of flowers: Birds eye gillia (about a dozen quarter-inch
blossoms), white
owl clover, phecelia, mustang clover, harvest brodiaea, a tall
dandelion-type flower, filaree, Athurial's spear, yellow and white
Mariposa lily, red clover, yellow clover, buckeye, thistles with
large and small blossoms, yellow
throated gillia, foothill gillia, farewell-to-spring,
snap dragon-like flower, climbing
brodiaea, popcorn flowers, fiddlenecks, pale
blue lupine, tall blue ground lupine, white lupine, vetch,
rattlesnake plant, poppies, common madia, and that old favorite,
several species of "unidentified."
--Dick Estel, May 2017
Previous
San Joaquin Gorge Trips
Hot
Hike Photos
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Photos
(Click to enlarge; pictures open in new window) |
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McKenzie
Preserve Herding Cats & Hiking
Highway 33
Bridge Trail
Photos (plus)
Edison Point
Hot Hike |
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McKenzie Preserve |
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Lots of blue oaks |
Emily,
Sandy, Jackie, Kristi, Laura, Jessica, Teri, Monica |
The oldest oak in
the preserve |
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This little guy was
too busy eating to notice that he was having his picture taken |
One of those
unidentified flowers |
Cultural artifacts,
dating back at least 400 years or more |
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Frogs of the future |
An excellent resting
stop, with Indian grinding holes, a creek with tadpoles, and green
beauty |
Teri on the rock |
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Walking along the
San Joaquin & Eastern Railroad grade |
A patch of popcorn
flowers |
Ranch across Auberry
Road from the preserve |
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Various
view of the table tops |
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McKenzie Preserve
trail map |
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Herding Cats &
Hiking |
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Little Table
Mountain peeks over the foothills |
Blue oak woodland is
bright green this year |
The Bird (Dinosaur?
Dragon?) |
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View of Oakhurst
from Deadwood Grade |
Shuteye Peak |
Cedars along the
trail to Corlieu Falls |
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The multiple
cascades of Corlieu Falls |
A close-up view |
Massive canyon live
oak below the falls |
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A rare quiet section
of Lewis Creek |
Ancient mossy log
and large ferns |
Granite boulders
dominate the trail in places |
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The pink bell-like
blossoms of the manzanita |
Thousands of dead
trees have been removed, including three that stood here |
The last patch of
snow of the winter |
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Falls on California
Creek below Road 6S47Y (Compare
October 2014) |
The trail we walked
on in
November is under water in April |
Here's where I
decided to turn my car around |
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Blue lupine along
road 620 |
Harlequin lupine on
the Neely property |
Live oak catkins
(blossoms) |
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The old road on the
back of the property |
The farthest point
you can walk down the drainage |
Buckeye and boulders |
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Foothill beauty |
Jasper on the alert |
Helping me explore
the drainage |
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The old road by the
unsold development |
Black oak, red with
catkins |
Looking down the
drainage from the upper section |
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Log chipping
operation in Oakhurst |
Log deck |
Hombre near the
start of the Neely Trail |
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Highway 33 |
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The pier
at Ventura |
View
from the Crowne Plaza Hotel |
Ventura
sunset |
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Matilija
poppies at Casitas Springs |
These
flowering bushes were thick along the southern part of the highway
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A
close-up look |
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A
typical section of the highway |
Looking
up Tule Creek Canyon |
Evergreens
on a ridge |
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Blue
flowered chaparral |
Yuccas
were few in number but very eye-catching |
An
abandoned outpost |
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Weathered
rock formation looks like it could be in Utah |
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The light
colored sections across the middle are exposed bedrock |
The heart
of Los Padres National Forest |
The high
point on the journey |
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The view
from just over the pass |
I could
not tell what kind of trees these were |
The
rugged northern side of the mountains |
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San Joaquin Gorge
Bridge Trail Plus |
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Mustang clover was the dominant flower
at the Gorge |
Anne and Linda admire our local
wildflowers |
The bridge over the San Joaquin River |
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The river was higher than it's been in
years |
Dick, Anne and Linda near the bridge |
Buckeye blossoms were just getting
started |
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Ten days into spring,
farewell-to-spring is making its first appearance |
Yellow flowers mixed in with mustang
clover |
This natural bouquet includes madia,
mustang clover and harvest brodiaea |
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In the back yard at Upshaw's - Colton,
Brittany, Johnny, Anne, Jack, Teri and Linda |
Harlequin lupines, the pride of the
Neely property, are thicker than ever this year |
Jennifer, Anne and Linda on the 'Neely
Trail" |
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Live oak and blue oak above the trail |
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Edison
Point |
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Farewell-to-Spring
paint the hillside pink |
Where the hike
starts |
Tall grass at the
trail entrance warns of what's ahead |
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Climbing brodiaea
twines around dead brush |
Nature's
masterpiece, the Mariposa lily |
The water level at
Pine Flat has been lowered to make room for the coming snow melt |
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Vegetation threatens
to cover the bench |
Dick at the bench |
Purple vetch is
thick all over the foothills |
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The lone buttercup
seen on the hike |
Purple brodiaea,
gone to seed (Here's
what I hoped it would look like) |
A pinkish white
lupine |
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From a distance
these flowers look like a dandelion seed head |
Mariposa lilies
along the upper section of the trail |
A
never-before-seen mutant variation of the Mariposa lily |
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Milkweed |
The spectacular
blazing star |
View
of Edison Point from the trail |
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Farewell-to-Spring
along Trimmer Springs Road |
A closer look |
The green hills are
rapidly turning brown |
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Hot
Hike at the Gorge |
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The
sign where you turn off from Power House Road to Smalley Road |
Bright
yellow of madia against the dark green of live oak |
The
brodiaea species known as Athurial's spear |
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The rare
yellow variety of Mariposa lily |
King of
the late season flowers, farewell-to-spring |
A closer
look |
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Climbing
brodiaea were thick in some areas |
A few
places still had a lot of green grass |
This
lupine plant produces a lot of of pale blue flowers on one plant |
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White
owl clover, not really a clover |
Much of
the grass has gone to seed |
Butterflies
where thick around several of the creeks |
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Squaw
Leap table top mountain |
The
other side of Squaw Leap from Prather |
I had my
rest and snack under this huge live oak |
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This
delightful flower is the yellow-throated gillia |
There
were still a few poppies among the farewell-to-spring |
This
unknown species was thick along Smalley Road |
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Related Links |
|
Sierra
Foothill Conservancy |
McKenzie
Preserve |
San
Joaquin and Eastern Railroad |
More
about SJ&E RR |
A
Hike to the Table Top |
Blue
Oaks |
Dragon
by the Road (Song) |
Corlieu
Falls |
Lewis
Creek Trail |
Southgate
Brewing Company |
Oakhurst |
Black
Oaks |
Deadwood
Mountain Fire Lookout |
Tree
Removal |
San
Joaquin River Gorge |
Common
Madia Photos |
Edison
Point Trail |
Los
Padres National Forest |
State Highway
33 |
Maricopa |
Pine
Mountain Summit Bike Ride |
San
Joaquin River Trail |
Mariposa
Lilies |
Dick's
San Joaquin Gorge Photo Gallery |
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