|
Dick's
Adventures of 2018 - Part 4 |
|
Photos
Related Links
More
Travel Reports |
|
Adventures
of 2016 Adventures
of 2017 2018
Part 1 2018
Part 2 2018
Part 3 2018
Part 5 2018
Part 6
|
|
Wishon
Domes & Sawmill Flat
Fresno Dome
New Stargazer Rock
Courtright Camp
|
|
Wishon Domes & Sawmill
Flat
On
August 27 through 29 I enjoyed another of my solo truck camping
trips to a place I used to go to a lot, the last time in 1986.
Although I ended up staying at Sawmill Flat Campground, my original
destination was a place we call Wishon Domes.
The
road to the campground goes from the McKinley Grove Road, about a mile before the turnoff to Courtright Reservoir. The camp is
three miles in, and the road then goes down to Black Rock
Reservoir and Balch Camp. A
half mile past the camp a mostly 4-wheel drive road goes toward Lake
Wishon, paralleling the
North Fork
of the Kings River, high up the side of the canyon. About a mile and a half in on this
road, we found a well-established unofficial camp site, where we
stayed at least seven times between 1981 and 1986.
Between
the road and the river a lot of the country is open, rounded granite
– not classic domes like in Yosemite, but more like
"domes in progress." Between the domes, cliffs and
huge boulders, areas of soil support juniper and Jeffrey pine, and
seemingly acres of green leaf manzanita. It is possible to make your
way out through this terrain and look down into Granite
Gorge, where
the river flows below Wishon Dam. |
|
|
|
The
rounded granite of Wishon Domes |
A nice
smooth section of the rough road |
|
Just
before the camp is a very rough creek crossing, which I had driven
through with my Datsun pickup several times in the 1980s. However,
my daughter had been there recently, driving her 4-wheel drive work
truck, and said the crossing caused them to get out and take a good
look at the best way through it before they proceeded. When I got
close to Long Meadow Creek, I parked at a place where I knew I could
turn around, and walked to the creek. My first thought was that it
was washed out a lot more than during my earlier visits, and much more
challenging.
A
couple was at the campsite with a 4-wheel drive vehicle and a small
trailer, about the size of a VW Bug. The man said that his
grandfather started camping there in the 1960s. When he died he
wanted his ashes scattered there. Plans were made for all the family
to go there to camp when they did this, but some were concerned
about the lack of a bathroom, and primitive sleeping and cooking
facilities.
They
ended up bringing a small motor home, maybe 20 or 24 feet. At a
place on the narrow road where you are squeezed between the vertical
cliff on one side and a thousand foot drop on the other, they measured
the width. Everyone got out, and the man’s father drove through
this section, with his door open so he could jump out if the vehicle
started to go over the cliff. They made it through successfully both
ways and all was well.
After
further thought I decided I could probably make it across the creek,
but the consequences of failure would be too great, so I put on my
boots and set out across the boulders toward the river.
|
|
|
|
The
"official" Wishon Domes camp site |
A
horizontal juniper tree |
|
When
I made a day trip to this spot in 2002, we walked out to the edge
without going up or down much, and no problem with brush. This time
I think I got too far to the north. It seemed I was always having to
find my way up or down at some huge rock formation, and twice I had
to walk through a patch of manzanita, an uncomfortable,
leg-scratching experience that should be avoided at all costs. By
this time I had used up half my energy, and realized I was not going to
get out to the edge, so I had my snack, and took an easier route
back. This path took my past a little pond hidden in the rocks that
is full of grass and lilies, and surrounded by tall trees. |
|
|
|
Going up and over rock formations like this was all
just part of the "fun"
|
Green leaf manzanita sometimes blocked my path in
every direction
|
|
|
|
Looking
at the top of Granite Gorge |
The
little pond in the rocks |
|
When I got back to the
truck I rested and had a snack, then walked up the road past the
camp to a place where there is a large lily pond. Much of the road
here was just a rock pile, cementing my decision not to go any
farther in this direction. When I finished this walk I made the slow
drive over more rocks out to the "main" road and into Sawmill
Flat Campground.
|
|
|
|
The Lily
Pond near Wishon Domes |
The rough
and rocky road to Wishon |
|
The
campground has only three tables (but four restrooms), and doesn't
really offer anything special. However, it is large, with lots of
space between the three tables, and surrounded by tall pines and
firs. It's very dusty, and there has been logging nearby so there
are a lot of branches that were trimmed from fallen logs. The camp has been there for decades, and near my campsite was a huge
pile of ashes that had been cleaned out of the fire ring over the years.
The logging slash provided plenty of firewood, and there was more
than enough privacy, since I was the only camper there.
A
few people drove in to use the restroom, and I talked to two men who
had been bear hunting with bow and arrow. They and another hunter
had shots at three bears, with the score so far, Bears 3, Hunters 0. |
|
|
|
My
campsite at Sawmill Flat |
Tall
pines and firs surround the camp |
|
There
are no hiking trails in the area, but I had decided the next morning
to walk down the road to a place where there is a good view down
into the canyon. From here you can see a nice waterfall and a large pool on the river. I was not sure how far this was, but I knew it was fairly close to the junction with the road to Wishon
Domes.
There was a lot of evidence of logging in the area - big piles of slash waiting to be burned after the rains start, slopes dug up by heavy equipment dragging logs down to the road, and plenty of stumps. I could only hope that there were plans to control the areas where erosion could bring tons of loose soil down on the road and beyond.
There were still plenty of trees standing, mostly fir and sugar pine, with some Jeffrey pine mixed in. In open areas there was white thorn, green
leaf manzanita, and chinquapin, all part of the mountain brush community.
Not far past the junction I started getting glimpses of the falls down
in the canyon, and eventually came to an open area where there was a good view. The canyon is known as Granite Gorge and Hell Hole, the latter being where the gorge opens up after the river drops over the falls. I hiked down to
the river there in 1984. With no trail, I just made my way down the
canyon, spent
the night next to a
large pool, and came back up the next day. |
|
|
|
Skid
marks where logs were dragged down to the road |
Dick
stands by a super-size slash pile |
|
|
|
Hell
Hole, below the mouth of Granite Gorge
(large size photo is marked to show individual landmarks) |
Hell Hole
Falls |
|
Each
night when it cooled off I had a fire. The low temperature was about
40 degrees both nights, with a high of about 75. Driving out the
final morning I came to the logging area just as a log truck was
heading out, and followed it out to the paved road. I talked to the
driver when he stopped to tighten the cables holding the logs, and
learned that he was headed for Terra
Bella, site of one of the last operating sawmills in the
southern half of California.
I
decided I would probably not drive over the rough Wishon road again,
and the lack of the type of recreational opportunities that I prefer will probably
make this my last stay at Sawmill Flat.
Miscellaneous
data: Elevation at Wishon Domes Camp: 6,300; at Sawmill Flat 6,900.
Temperature at 4:30 first day: 64 degrees; at 5:00 60 degrees; at
7:20 52; low after midnight 40 degrees; total miles driven 71.3.
--Dick Estel, September 2018
More
photos from Wishon Domes & Sawmill Flat |
|
|
|
Stump
from newly cut red fir |
Tightening
the load |
|
Fresno
Dome
Fresno
Dome is a small, isolated rock mountain in the Sierra Nevada
east of Oakhurst, mostly surrounded by forested terrain. It's about
7,500 feet in elevation, and the top is accessible by a fairly easy
trail with a few steep, rocky spots. I went to the top three or
four times back in the 20th Century, but had not been there for
about 35 years. I had mentioned to my daughter Jennifer, who lives
five miles above Oakhurst, that I would like to go to Fresno Dome
"one more time while I still can."
We
checked our calendars and made plans for me to drive up on September
1, do the hike, then have a birthday dinner for her and spend the
night. When I arrived, her husband Rod was at the grocery store, but
he soon returned and we got started, taking their Jeep. The route is
via the Sky Ranch Road, which leaves Highway 41 a short distance
from Road 620 where they live. Sky Ranch is a major access route to
a number of campgrounds and recreation areas, including Nelder
Grove. A few miles past the turnoff to Nelder, we left Sky Ranch,
and soon had a view of the dome from the southwest. From this point
on the road was dirt but in fairly good shape.
As
you drive past the north side of dome, you arrive at Fresno
Dome Campground, but the trailhead is another two miles. Unless
my memory is seriously faulty, the campground has been relocated
since my trips to the area in the 1980s. The trailhead is well
marked, with a small dirt parking lot surrounded by pine and fir
trees, plus the usual mountain shrubs.
Two
women were coming out from the trail, and as we started to ask them
about conditions, Jennifer recognized them as the sister and mother
of one of her best friends, so they had a short visit. |
|
|
|
Storm
clouds over Fresno Dome in November 2016 |
Rod and
Jennifer at the trailhead |
|
We
got started
on the trail, which crosses a meadow, then goes up gently
through evergreens and the ever-present green leaf manzanita. In a
few spots there seemed to be two choices for the trail. For the most
part it's marked with rock
cairns, but in some places people have created these piles
for both choices. However, we made it to the base of the dome, and
started up. Any ambiguous sections were clearly marked in this
section, except for one short spur trail that lead out to a
drop-off, but offered a spectacular view.
Jennifer
had knee surgery several years ago and it has been bothering her
lately, so she decided not to attempt the final section of the
trail. Rod waited with her while I made my way on up. |
|
|
|
Jennifer
and Rod, surrounded by evergreens and manzanita |
First
view of the dome from the trail |
|
|
|
Cairns
mark the trail through the loose rock at the lower part of the dome |
A short
spur trail leads out to this excellent view |
|
It
was slightly steep in some places, but not particularly difficult. I
used my hiking poles and walked very carefully, as I always do. When
you can see the top, the trail ends but it's easy to make your way
up the last hundred feet or so. On top I rested, took a triumphant
selfie, and enjoyed the view. While you can see in all directions,
much of it is forest land. There are some rocky ridges to the east,
but the relatively low elevation and the isolation from higher
country prevents a really spectacular view.
There
were three people resting in the shade of a huge boulder just over
the top, having climbed up the steep southwest side of the dome
using technical mountaineering equipment. |
|
|
|
A rocky
ridge to the east of the dome |
"I
still can!" |
|
|
Panoramic
view of the rocks marking the very top of the dome |
|
I
made my way back
down to where Rod and Jennifer were waiting, and we hiked back
to their Jeep for the ride home. I was very happy to have made this
hike, but the walk down from the top was difficult and required
extreme care. I decided I would happily hike up five more times as
long as I did not have to hike down.
We
had talked about going out to dinner for Jennifer's birthday, which
was later in the month, but Rod decided to make pulled
pork enchiladas, which proved to be delicious. For dessert there
was cheese
cake AND ice cream.
Jennifer
had to leave fairly early for church the next day, so she and I had
a birthday breakfast at Pete's
Place, one of our favorite Oakhurst restaurants, highly
recommended for any meal.
--Dick
Estel September 2018
More
Fresno Dome Photos |
|
New
Stargazer Rock
Our
family has been camping at the place we call Stargazer
Rock since around 2000. We couldn't find a date that worked last
year, so I went in my truck to a nearby location that I have dubbed
New Stargazer. It was such a great spot to hike and camp that I
decided to return on September 4 and 5 this year. I have been doing
so much camping lately that I hardly have time in between trips to
write these reports. My daughter Teri says this is a good problem to
have. You
can read about where it is and other details in last
year's report, so I'll just cover the highlights of my 2018
visit there. First off, the road seemed to be no worse, but
certainly no better than last year. I drove in from Highway 168, a
slightly shorter drive than the route I took last year. It required
only five miles of dirt road driving (all rough), and took a little
less than two hours from home. Once
I got camp set up, I took a short walk, going mainly south and west
from camp, and staying mostly on the big, level
area there. At the extreme southwestern point of my hike I had
view down at Shaver
Lake. I also made a number of trips up to the top of the big
dome-like rock right next to camp. I've given this formation the
unimaginative name of Camp Rock. From the top you can see the
mountains above the Dinkey
Creek drainage, and also keep an eye out for possible
storm clouds. |
|
|
|
New
Stargazer - Lonely and remote but beautiful |
"Camp
Rock," the big rock at New Stargazer |
|
Late
in the afternoon, the sky got very dark, and there was thunder off
and on for an hour or so. I covered everything with the tarps I
always have in my camping boxes, but ultimately I had only about ten
drops of rain. However, several hundred pine needles showered down
on my truck and me.
I
did another walk out to the north, to the
top of a nearby dome. I also went down across the shoulder of
another dome that is a little lower and just east of the higher one,
then made my way back to camp. For convenience of description, I'm
temporarily calling these Upper and Lower North Domes. (After being
visited by my great grandsons, they would become Colton's Dome and
Jack's Dome.)
I
had considered having a fire in the evening, but open fires are not
allowed at this season. However, it was not very cold, with the low
getting down to 50 degrees, ten degrees warmer than my trip a week
earlier to Wishon
Domes and Sawmill Flat. |
|
|
|
Dark
skies brought rain somewhere but not to me |
The two
domes north of camp under stormy skies |
|
The
next morning I started the day with a bloody Mary, something I
haven't done for quite a while. I don't like to hike right after
drinking or eating, but I had decided to start the day's "big
hike" at least an hour or so after breakfast. As I fixed and
ate breakfast, then got things cleaned up and put away, I enjoyed
the view to the southeast of a ridge of high peaks that I'm certain
are part of the Kings
Canyon National Park back country. This ridge is not visible
much of the day, but the outline can be seen in the early morning,
and on this trip, I also saw it late in the evening the first night.
Last
year, from the top of Camp Rock, I could clearly pick out the
location of our original Stargazer camp. It looks like maybe a mile
as the raven flies, but by road the two spots are four miles apart
on challenging dirt roads. In between old and new there is a large
dome, which I thought was probably Neely Dome. We have climbed up it
a number of times from the earlier camp location. It looked like I
could get to it from my new-found campsite by crossing the eastern
shoulder of Lower North Dome, then going down
into a drainage and up Neely Dome. This was the destination for
my "big hike" on the second day. |
|
|
|
Distant
peaks in Kings Canyon National Park are visible in outline |
Neely
Dome, about half way between New and "old" Stargazer |
|
The
first part of the route was obvious and fairly easy, since I'd
walked across the lower north dome last year and this. Between this
dome and Neely Dome the land drops down fairly steeply into a
drainage, and I kept going farther up it,
looking for a way down. When the distance to the crossing was
reasonably close, I went down and across. Once I got past this
barrier, it was just a matter of working my way up Neely Dome, going
in a zig-zag pattern across the steepest parts, till I reached the
top. I had some second thoughts about whether this was really Neely
Dome, but a comparison of photos from east
and west sides
have convinced me it is. From the top I could clearly see the level
rock ridge that is the actual Stargazer Rock, and a travel trailer
at the far edge of it in a spot where we've parked a number of
times.
The
route back was a little easier. I followed the ridge that went sort
of north and west from Neely Dome, to a flat section that ran out
sort of north and east from Lower North Dome, then made my way
across the shoulder of the latter back to camp.
I
enjoyed lots of nice scenery, plus a variety of trees, including
lodgepole pine, Jeffrey pine, western
white pine, red fir and white fir. The shrubs in the area were
limited to the low-growing pinemat manzanita, thick patches of green
leaf manzanita, and a few chinquapin bushes. I was disappointed that
there were no flowers, but late summer at this elevation is time for
the plants to go to seed. |
|
|
|
It's been
a prolific season for Jeffrey pine cones |
Granite
rock formations, set off by manzanita and pines |
|
There
were some clouds the second afternoon, but no thunder and no threat
of rain. I passed the rest of my trip as usual, reading,
walking around near the camp, and going up on Camp Rock to check the
sky and the distant mountains. I got a leisurely start the next day,
having my tea, then breakfast, then somehow getting all the stuff I
had scattered around back
into the truck. I made it out the bad road and the almost as bad
road with no difficulty, and had a pleasant drive down from 7,500
feet back to the valley, where the temperatures have dropped below
100 degrees at last.
--Dick
Estel, September 2018
More
New Stargazer Photos |
|
Courtright
Camp
For
my third camping trip in three weeks I went to a favorite place, the
east side of Courtright Reservoir, September 10 - 12. The lake is not visible from our
choice spot, but we are surrounded by domes, rocky ridges, cliffs of
layered rock, juniper trees, and more domes. It's a big, sort of
flat granite slab, surrounded by boulders, trees and views to die
for. You can read about earlier trips here.
The
road to the trailhead and our camping area is single lane where it
crosses the dam, but there is rarely any traffic. I stopped on the
dam to take pictures of the lake and the Helms Creek Gorge
downstream.
|
|
|
|
Courtright
Reservoir, land of many domes (Courtright Dome at center left) |
The
canyon of Helms Creek, looking downstream from the dam |
|
When
I arrived I was happy to see that no one was in "my"
place, so I unloaded some of my stuff and started off on my first
hike, north on the Dusy-Ershim Trail. About a third of a mile in
this 4-wheel drive trail passes
right by a little creek. During our campout here in June, grandson Johnny and I were
speculating on where the creek goes from that point. From our
campsite it looks like it would pass between us and the domes to the
east, but this would require the water to run up hill through the
Maxson Trailhead parking lot. The likely place, between Hopeless
Dome and Double Dome, does not look deep enough. I decided I would
try to follow the creek and find out for myself.
There
was no water in the creek, so I stepped across and up into a wide, semi-level
section of dried grass, scattered trees, and boulders on the east
side. I set an
upward course parallel to the creek and up into the rocks at the
base of Double Dome, and soon it was obvious that the channel ran
between the two domes as we had speculated.
I
found some nice junipers in this area, and had a good workout going
up, then carefully back down, across the creek to the trail and back
to camp. |
|
|
|
Our
favorite campsite has plenty of domes to look at |
Drainage
between Double Dome and Hopeless Dome, looking southeast |
|
As
I reached the last few hundred feet I could see that a large vehicle
was parked in the camp area. The place is big enough for more than
one party to camp, but too small for me to be comfortable with
neighbors that close.
Approaching
the campsite, I could see all kinds of stuff scattered
about - plastic garbage cans, storage bins, bear
canisters, and tables, plus four or
five people. Then I saw a circle of backpacks and about 50 pairs of
boots laid out on the rock, and decided that
people would be arriving and then going backpacking, probably
leaving me alone.
As
often happens, a negative turned into a positive. One of the men
came over to me, and let me know that a bunch of kids would be
arriving, but would be leaving on a five-day outing by the end of the
day. There would be four different groups, each going in their
own direction. One group would ride a bus down to Lake Wishon and
hike in from a trailhead on the opposite side of the Kings River's
North Fork. This activity was sponsored by Outward
Bound, a non-profit educational program which conducts all kinds
of outdoor adventures, providing all the needed food and equipment
and led by trained and experienced instructors. Kids
in this group were twelve and thirteen years old. When
they arrived, the leaders divided them into their separate
groups, and I listened and watched the ones closest to me. The
leader had them take everything out of the backpacks, one item at a
time, explaining what it was and how it was used. He then had them
dump out the personal items they had brought, and divided them into
two piles - stuff to take and stuff to leave behind. Left behind -
cotton shirts, deodorant; take along - tooth brush, underwear (3
pairs only). Although I did a lot of backpacking
years ago, it was interesting and educational to hear this
discussion. Boots were available for anyone who did not have their
own. |
|
|
|
Backpacks, packed and waiting for the hikers
|
Some of the young men preparing to test themselves
against the rigors of the Sierra Nevada
|
|
Meanwhile
I went about my own business, fixing lunch, reading, and getting my
camp set up for the evening. Before long all the kids had hiked off
in various directions, and at the end of the day there were only two
people left behind, along with a large truck. I talked with them and
learned that they were meeting another group that was coming out the
next day after ten days in the back country. This group would get a hot meal
and be re-supplied, then go back out for another ten days, repeating this
for a total outing of 30 days. This
group was older, 18 and up, and arrived about the time I was
finishing breakfast the next morning. The man who was meeting them turned out to be a
climbing instructor, and again I listened as he talked and handed
out equipment. Each hiker received two carabiners,
a helmet, a day pack, and other items. They would leave their large
packs at a base camp and take their lunch and equipment in the day
packs as they went to climb the rocks. By
the time I started my big hike for the day, they had headed town the
Dusy-Ershim Trail. I drove my truck the opposite direction to a
parking spot beside the road where I planned to go up on two domes
that I had climbed with my daughter Teri and her friend Sandi in
2016. There is a geological exhibit by the road, and to the south
are two rocky domes, which we named Sandi's Dome and Teri's Dome.
Getting to the top is simply a matter of following a zig-zag route
up through the rock slabs and boulders that cover the slope of the
first dome. The top is fairly rounded and has a lot of solid
granite, with a steep drop-off to the east. From
Sandi's Dome I walked down to the saddle between the two features,
and made my way up to the top of Teri's Dome which is slightly
lower. It drops off very steeply into the Helms Creek Gorge on the
west, and provides a spectacular view of many of the domes in the
area, as well as the LeConte Divide to the east and of course the
lake. It's location next to the canyon made it especially windy, and
I did not say long on top. A short way down I sat on a rock shelf
and had a snack, then worked my way across the other dome back
to my truck and drove the short distance to camp. |
|
|
|
Sandi's Dome, left; Teri's Dome center,
and a dome to be named later |
The strong breeze on Teri's Dome made me feel I
should be
leaning like the Jeffrey pine in the background |
|
|
Left to right Constant Dome, Maxson Dome (on the
skyline) lower Double Dome with Hopeless Dome below and upper Double
to the right |
|
|
The LeConte Divide, with Mt. Goddard just right
of center |
|
Later
on, the climbing group returned and set up camp in a flat rock area
south of me. They were mostly out of sight, completely unobtrusive,
and totally quiet by the time I went to bed at 8:45. The next
morning they left their big packs under a couple of canvas shelters
and set off to the south for more rock climbing.
My
final hike the second day was a short evening jaunt to take a look
at the
Big Four, four tall, straight junipers in a row that look as if they
were planted there. Nearby is the Bull
Juniper, one of the most
impressive specimens in the region. It is big, and has a number of
twisted dead branches at the
top. You can stand on the edge of a
40-foot cliff and look straight across at the top. I've hiked down
to the base in the past, but did not want to try anything that
ambitious late in the day. |
|
|
|
Outward Bound climbers' base camp |
Hopeless Dome from the slope below Double
Dome |
|
Before
we say goodbye to this magnificent area, probably for the last time in
2018, a few words about dome names. As far as I can tell from the US
Forest Service map, there is only one dome in the area with an
official name, Maxson Dome north and slightly east of the lake. The
other names I mentioned are those that I have made up. We have a rule
that if you want your personal name applied to a dome, you must ascend to the
top of it. So Sandi and Teri earned the right to their names on the
domes that I went up on during this trip.
One
of the Outward Bound instructors told me the names of several of the
domes visible from our camp, but he said he did not know that these
were official either, just what the hikers who frequent the area call
them. So the alternate names are as follows:
Constant
Dome, because it's almost constantly in view from the trailhead to the
Big Granite Slope that usually marks the end of my hikes in that
direction is Voyager Dome. Just west of our camp area is Hopeless
Dome, which I named when it forced a retreat as I tried to climb it a
couple of years ago; it's alternate name is Punk Rock (also
appropriate). Double Dome, which looks like two domes from some
directions and a single "stair step" dome from others is
Dusy Dome (upper) and Penstemon Dome (lower). On this trip I applied a
new name, Courtright
Dome, to a small dome right by the northern end
of the lake. It's not visible from camp, but stands out in the photo
of the lake at the top of this report. Because my readers are used to
them, I will continue to use my own names when discussing these
features.
|
|
|
|
Constant Dome (AKA Voyager Dome) (click
here for a slide show that demonstrates the many faces of this
formation) |
Double Dome (AKA Penstemon Dome and Dusy Dome)
and Hopeless Dome (AKA Punk Rock) |
|
Both
nights the low was 34 degrees, but as usual I was comfortable in my
sleeping bag with a hooded sweat shirt, and an extra blanket. I had
a fantastic view of the stars whenever I went out at night, with no
moon to wash them out at any time. Until the final morning there was
not a single cloud anywhere. My most interesting wildlife spotting
was some bluebirds flying next to the camp area.
In the
morning I had tea, then fixed breakfast, and started my usual slow
but steady breakdown of camp. And as I usually do, when I arrived
back in the city I rewarded myself with a Buffalo chicken sandwich
at the Colorado Grill. When I got home I took EVERYTHING out of the
truck for the first time since since I started truck camping in
2016, so I could vacuum it out and reorganize my camp boxes. It
should not surprise you to know that I already have my next camping
trip on the calendar for early October.
--Dick
Estel, September 2018
More
Courtright Camp Photos |
|
|