| September 12, 2007
            : Here I am at the 5th annual “Bluegrassin’ in the
            Foothills” at
            Plymouth, on highway 49 in
            Amador
            County. This is my 3rd time for this festival; I was here last
            year and in 2004.
            
            
             My
            cousin Don from
            Oregon came by the house last evening, and we went out to dinner with my
            daughter Teri and her family. Then we sat around talking a while
            this morning before he left, so I didn’t get as early a start as I
            thought I would. Even so, I got here in plenty of time, since my
            schedule is mainly “when I get around to it.”
            
            
             I left
            a little before 11 a.m., came up Highway 99, and took Highway 88 at
            Stockton. Then it was short jogs on Highways 124, 16 and 49, getting me here
            around 4 p.m.
            After I got set up I walked around a little, rode my bike, sat
            outside reading, and had supper. The weather was quite nice, never
            over 80 on the way up here. Now at  7:30
            it has cooled off to the point where I would be wearing a long
            sleeve shirt if I were outside (I set the thermometer out after I
            wrote this and it was 65 degrees).
            
             If time
            and circumstances permit, I like to go somewhere else in the area,
            either on the “dead day” before the show starts, or after the
            festival is over, or both. Music does not start till Friday, so I
            will go somewhere tomorrow, and I have tentative plans for after the
            festival. Rather than say what I might
            do, I will wait till I have done it and tell you what I did.
            
            
             Setting
            up required a little more effort than usual this time. I’m a bit farther up
            the hillside than last year, so I had to block up the wheels on one
            side. A 2 x 6 or a 4 x 6 are the most I’ve ever needed before, but
            I had to put two more 2 x 6 boards on top of my 4 x 6’s to get the
            trailer level this time.
            
            
             September
            13: The other two times I was here, on the off day I headed
            south on State Highway 49 to Drytown and
            Amador City, two tiny towns occupied by a number of antique stores. This time I
            decided to retrace my route here and head back to Ione, 11 miles
            away.
            
             Geography
            lesson: State Highway 12 leaves US 101 at Santa Rosa, goes through
            Napa, and heads west through the Central Valley north of the
            Stockton Delta. It crosses Highway 99 at
            Lodi, and eventually goes into the foothills, meeting Highway 49 at San
            Andreas. My preferred route to the festival calls for leaving
            highway 99 at
            Stockton on
            California 88. A few miles east of
            Stockton, Highway 12 comes in from the northwest and the two routes are
            contiguous for several miles. About two miles past Lockeford, 12
            continues on toward Highway 49, and 88 takes a hard left, crosses
            the
            Mokelumne River, and heads into the foothills.
            
            
             In a
            few more miles, state highway 24 leaves 88 and soon passes through
            the old gold rush town of
            Ione
            . About seven miles from Ione, the bluegrasser gets on Highway 16
            for about 100 yards, then immediately on to Highway 49, two miles
            from
            Plymouth.
            
            
             Ione is
            where I spent a couple of hours today, window shopping and
            sightseeing. Actually, the first thing I did was check for a
            wireless Internet connection, and I was able to get a free
            connection and check my Email (there is an unreliable connection at
            Plymouth
            
            that requires a payment of $5 per day).
            
            
             I
            walked around the three-block main business section of Ione, and
            checked out the town park and a thrift shop. I only saw one antique
            store, and it was closed. Next I ordered a pizza at the Pizza
            Factory. If you ever find yourself hungry in a small town, look for
            this franchise. With rare exceptions, they all provide excellent
            pizza and good service.
            
            
             The
            population of the town is listed on the sign as 7,000, but it had
            the feel and appearance of a much smaller town – probably they are
            counting a lot of people in the nearby countryside. After passing
            through several much larger-appearing towns with populations of
            2,000 to 4,000, I decided I must have misread the sign and Ione’s
            people number a little over 700. However, the California Department
            of Finance, Demographic Research Unit, lists Ione’s population as
            7,617.
            
             I was
            still full from breakfast when I got my pizza, so I brought it back
            to
            Plymouth, and by the time I stopped to take some pictures, got gas, and got
            settled back into camp, it was time for lunch, followed by a nap.
            
            
             The
            weather has been excellent. It was 52 during the night, so it was
            nice to snuggle down into the sleeping bag, quite a change from
            sleeping without even a sheet all summer in
            Fresno. The temperature today was around 80. It was almost completely
            overcast this morning, causing a bit of worry since I got rained on
            severely at this location the first time, but the clouds cleared
            away by the time I left on my little trip.
            
            
             They
            are going to be showing a movie of a 1970s era bluegrass festival at
            the stage area tonight, so I will probably wander over and check
            that out, getting in the mood for serious bluegrass music for the
            next three days.
            
            
             
            
            
             September
            15: A day of music is behind us, with the second day starting in
            about an hour and half. As always there were highs and maybe not
            lows, but certainly mediums. The first four bands were part of the
            “emerging artist” program – usually new young bands that play
            for free. The reward for the winner is the opportunity to come back
            next year and get paid, and to compete in the regional program at
            the June Huck Finn festival for the chance to present a showcase at
            the national IBMA convention in
            Nashville.
            
             The
            emerging bands were OK, some more than others. The best was the
            Barefoot Nellies, who have played extensively in the Bay Area. The
            one needing the most work was the Itchy Mountain Boys, four high
            school seniors who have been playing together for only two years.
            However, their female singer was the best female vocalist of the
            whole bunch – she just did not sing lead enough. She could carry
            the band until the others learn their instruments better.
            
            
             The
            professional bands included some that were new to me and some I’ve
            seen before. My favorite of the day was Nothin’ Fancy. I had read
            about the band but had
            not heard them that I know of (I have bluegrass on XM going in the
            background a lot, but I’m not necessarily aware of what band is
            playing). Anyway, they put on an entertaining show with music and
            humor. Equally good was the Williams & Clark Expedition. They
            are all long-time musicians, including a banjo player who worked
            with Lester Flatt, and for ten years with Bill Monroe, and for a
            number of years with Mike Snider.
            
            
             The
            U.S. Navy Band was at the top of the pinnacle as always, although we
            got some sad news – a couple of its members are getting ready to
            retire. Hopefully, the second
            best bass and guitar players in the Navy will step into their shoes.
            
            
             The
            weather was cooperative, a bit warm during the middle of the day,
            but with a good breeze all the time, and cooling off slightly by 
            3 p.m.
            In the evening, several layers were needed by the end of the show,
            but it was never unpleasantly cold.
            
            
             I’ve
            been up long enough to shave, exercise and write this entry, now
            I’ll have breakfast and be ready for much more music.
            
            
             
            
            
             September
            16: It always seems I do pretty good writing every evening the
            first couple of days, then get busy with the music, eating,
            miscellaneous camping chores, etc., and don’t write again till the
            festival is over. This time is no exception. Saturday started out
            with The Mighty Crows, last year’s emerging artist winner. They
            were good, nothing special.
            
             The new
            bands for Saturday were The Bladerunners, IIIrd Generation,
            Sawmill Road, and Lorraine Jordan & Carolina Road. The Bladerunners are from
            southern California
            
            and are all second generation performers. Pat Sauber of this group
            was in the movie A Mighty Wind, and appears on the soundtrack
            of Wild Hogs.
            
            
                My favorite was
            Sawmill Road, which includes several musicians I am familiar with. Lead singer
            Steve Spurgin is a well-known singer-songwriter. Banjo player Dick
            Brown was a long time member of one of my favorite bands,
            Lost Highway. I’ve seen fiddler Bruce Johnson in other bands, although I
            don’t recall which ones. And singer-guitarist Charlie Edsall
            played with Ron Spears and Within Tradition for a number of years
            – sort of a mid-level bluegrass supergroup.
            
            
             Carolina Road
            
             is
            from – obviously – the 
            Carolinas, and
            are a great traditional band. IIIrd Generation falls into the
            category of good, not spectacular.
            
            
            
             Today’s
            (Sunday) highlight was Kids on  
            Bluegrass, one
            of the best performances in this program that I’ve seen. Of
            course, what the younger ones lack in skill, they make up in
            cuteness, so their performance always goes over big with the
            audience. This is a project directed by Frank Sollivan Sr. Working
            with the kids on Friday and Saturday, he does not teach them to
            play. His contribution is to teach them to work together as a band,
            help with song selection, and schedule who will sing what and when.
            It’s a great program, and more than anything, helps to ensure the
            future of the music. The success of the program can be judged by the
            fact that his son, Frank Jr., is a member of the Navy Band.
             I
            had a pleasant surprise yesterday. I was watching the morning show
            when I heard my name called – and there was Bryce Green, a member
            of my high school class. Like most of my classmates, I’d seen him
            only once or twice over the 50 years since we finished high school,
            but we’d talked briefly at a funeral several months ago, and
            discussed bluegrass at our 50 year reunion in June. He and his wife,
            Alma Rhoan Green, had gone to their first bluegrass festival in
            February, and had a good time. I told them about this festival and
            encouraged them to attend. Their schedule made it impossible to
            decide in advance, and they were able to come only for Saturday. We
            had a good visit, had dinner together, and agreed that we should
            return next year.
            
            
             
            
            
             September
            17:
            More geography: California Highway 49 is known as the 
            Golden
            Chain Highway,
             and
            also as the 
            Mother
            Lode Highway.
             It
            more or less parallels the Mother Lode, which is a mile wide network
            of gold-bearing quartz that runs from Mariposa, 120 miles north to Georgetown. This
            area in the Sierra foothills produced millions and millions of
            dollars worth of gold, starting with the  
            
            California
            
             gold
            rush of 1849. Most of the towns along the highway originated as gold
            mining camps, and many got their start with names somewhat more
            colorful than they carry today. 
            Placerville
            was
            Hangtown; 
            Plymouth
            was
            Pokerville; Bottileas (named for the empty beer bottles scattered
            around) became 
            Jackson; and
            Jimtown was formalized into 
            Jamestown.
             Once the wild and wooly miners of gold rush days were replaced by
            civilized folks and the bawdy houses and saloons by churches and
            schools, the citizens felt that those early names were no longer
            appropriate.
             I’ve
            traveled most of Highway 49, never all at once, and most of it not
            recently. Until about 1960 the southern terminus was Mariposa; at
            that time the road to Oakhurst was improved and became the final
            segment of the Golden Chain.
            
            
             Highway
            49’s northern beginning is at Vinton on Highway 70 in  
            
            Plumas
            County,
             a
            few miles west of US 395. However, this is quite a ways north of 
            Georgetown
            
             and
            well past the actual Mother Lode. 
            
            Georgetown
            itself is
            not actually on Highway 49, but is about 25 miles northeast of
            Coloma, the original gold discovery site, on Highway 193.
             Today
            I went south on Highway 49 from  
            
            Plymouth
            to 
            Columbia,
             a
            state park and one of the state’s best preserved gold rush towns. 
            Columbia
            is
            also not actually on the highway; it’s about two miles to the
            northeast, and less than ten miles from 
            Sonora,
             the
            county seat of 
            Tuolumne
            County
             Before
            arriving here I went through the  
            
            Amador
            County
            seat
            of 
            Jackson,
             about ten miles from 
            Plymouth
            ,
             through Mokelumne Hill, the original county seat of 
            Calaveras
            
            County,
             through the current county seat, San Andreas, and through the town
            of 
            Angel’s
            Camp, home of the celebrated "Jumping  Frog of Calaveras
            County." The
            highway bypasses the main street of many of these towns, and there
            is a new bypass that completely misses  
            
            Amador
            City
            and
            Sutter Creek, two towns I’ve visited before during the bluegrass
            festival.
             I
            stopped in Mokelumne Hill and walked down the old main street, but
            this is pretty much a ghost town. I chatted briefly with an old
            gentleman who seemed to be the proprietor of a junk shop; he and a
            man working in his yard were the only citizens visible. There were
            some men working with a backhoe, and a  
            
            Calaveras
            County
            sheriff’s car drove around the town several
            times. The junk wrangler and I concluded that he was probably lost.
            Actually there is a small commercial section right on the highway, a
            quarter mile from the old town center.
             At
            San Andreas I stopped and got lunch at a Subway, then drove on down
            the road to a better stopping place to eat. I finished the day’s
            drive, about 60 miles, just at  1 p.m.,
            check-in time at the RV park where I had made a reservation.
             After
            getting set up, I drove the half mile to downtown  
            
            Columbia,
             and
            did the tourist thing for a couple of hours. There are several
            eating places, souvenir shops, and a candy store now operated by
            fourth generation owners, where I invested in some almond bark and
            peanut brittle.
             I
            made a few other purchases, mostly edible, had an ice cream while
            sitting on a shady bench, visited the old school house (a half-mile
            drive up a hill) then came back to the trailer for some reading, a
            short nap, and work on this report. We have free wireless internet
            access here, so I shall now go on line and delete the dozens of junk
            Emails that have no doubt piled up since Thursday.
            
            
             
            
            
             September
            18:
            Today I continued down Highway 49 to Mariposa, where I’m camped at
            the fairgrounds (they offer RV hookups when there are no conflicting
            events). I was going to go home, then go to Mariposa from 
            Fresno
            Thursday, but decided to come straight here and get in an extra day
            of work in Mother’s house. Tomorrow my younger daughter and her
            husband, Rod & Jennifer, will come over after work and we’ll
            have Jennifer’s birthday dinner, five days early.
             Highway
            49 is never a high speed road, but the middle part of today’s trip
            has the reputation of being exceptionally slow, narrow, and winding,
            and it certainly was that. Of course, I have driven over it before,
            but never with a trailer.
            
            
             Once
            I left  
            
            Columbia
            and
            got past 
            Sonora
            and 
            Jamestown,
             I
            went through the smoothest part of the entire trip as far as travel was
            concerned – there is a stretch of about ten miles that goes
            through a wide, rolling valley, with gentle curves and speeds of 55 
            MPH
             even
            with a trailer.
             However,
            once the road descends to the  
            
            Tuolumne
            River
            and
            Lake Don Pedro, all bets are off. It climbs a steep section from the
            Moccasin Creek complex (power house and fish hatchery), then drops
            down into Coulterville, a once bustling, now very sleepy gold rush
            town that is the “capitol” of northern Mariposa County. The road
            climbs up from there, and drops down the steepest and deepest
            stretch of all into the Merced
            River
            Canyon,
             crossing the upper part of 
            Lake
            McClure
            at
            Bagby.
             This
            was once a station stop on the long defunct  railroad from
             Merced
            to
            El Portal, just outside of 
            Yosemite
            Valley. It was also a popular
            fishing, swimming and camping spot, in the days before Exchequer Dam
            was raised, and the upper end of the lake was still downstream a few
            miles. My aunt and uncle and their kids used to come from San
            Diego
            to
            camp there, and we made a number of fishing/picnicking trips during
            my early childhood.
             Once
            the dam was raised, the old bridge was flooded out, along with what
            little remained of the town, and a bridge now crosses high above the
            water. It's impossible to even tell where the camping area was. On
            the south side of the bridge is the start of
            Bagby Grade, the steepest and most winding section of all, a few
            miles up out of the canyon to  
            
            Bear
            Valley.
             However, I took it easy and made it with no trouble.
             I
            made a number of stops along the way, the most interesting of which
            was near the top of Bagby Grade. When I was a kid I had been told
            that there was a place on the grade where you could see into  Yosemite
            Valley.
            About a year or so ago Leroy Radanovich, historian and keeper of all
            Mariposa information told me how to find the spot – a short walk
            past a gate across from where the Pine Tree Mine used to be. I found
            the gate, and in less than 100 yards I was looking at a very hazy
            and distant view of El
            Capitan
             and
            Half Dome.
             Since
            my dad worked at that mine in the 1940's, I walked down the
            weed-grown dirt road to the mine site to see what I could see.
            Nothing remains but some concrete foundations and piles of dirt, but
            in its day, it gave up a large amount of gold. It was originally
            owned by John C. Fremont, who had his headquarters nearby at Bear
            Valley.
            
             I
            traveled the much straighter and faster final 15 miles or so to my
            destination with no further stops, arriving around  1:30.
            Since the rest of my time here is mainly business, I will end this
            report here. --Dick Estel, September
            2007 |