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Dick's Adventures of
2025 - Part 1 |
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of 2025 p2
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Kings
Canyon Grant Grove
Visitors from the East - San Joaquin
Gorge, Yosemite
Edison Point Make-up
Finegold Fishermen's Trail
Finegold North
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Kings
Canyon National Park - Grant Grove etc. We
didn't exactly have cabin fever, but we were definitely ready to get out into
the hills and mountains of Central California. So on January 12
daughter Teri and I headed east on State Route 180, into Kings
Canyon National Park. Her son Johnny and wife Brittany had gone
there a few days earlier, her first visit despite living in Fresno
all her life. Their trip partly inspired ours. We
picked up sandwiches at a Subway on our way out of town, and drove
into the park and to the Grant Grove parking area. We had checked
the weather and were dressed for the 38 degree temperatures, fairly
comfortable as long as there was no wind. Despite the season and the
temperature there were dozens of people enjoying the bright, clear
winter day. Although
there are longer loop trails around the grove, we just basically
walked up to and around the
General Grant Tree, designated in 1926 as the Nation's
Christmas Tree. Although a relatively young 1,650 year old, it's the
world's second largest Sequoia, after the General Sherman in
adjacent Sequoia National Park. There are probably a couple dozen
other impressive sequoias visible along the route.
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The top
of the General Grant |
A full
view of the tree |
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Our
next stop was the gift shop at Grant Grove Village, with a specific
task in mind. When the
Ramblers hiked to the General
Sherman Tree in August 2023, my great grandsons Colton
and Jack accompanied us. Jack acquired a tiny Sequoia seedling,
which prospered for a while at his family cabin near Shaver Lake.
However, either the summer heat or other unknown factors killed the
tree late in 2024. His parents had hoped to get him a new one when
they visited, but the gift shop was closed. Teri and I took it on
ourselves to buy a replacement. We
ate our lunch at a picnic table on the plaza behind the gift shop,
then decided to drive a short distance south on the Generals
Highway, to the Kings
Canyon Overlook. We've been there many times, but
this visit gave us one of the best views ever, with snow sparkling
on the top of distant Goddard
Divide, in the park's back country. |
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Snowy
Sierra peaks from the Kings Canyon Overlook |
Mt.
Goddard is the highest peak in this view |
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After
enjoying the view for a while, we started back down the mountain,
arriving back home where it was above 60 degrees. Normally this
would seem cool to me, but after braving the 40 degree high in the
mountains, it was positively balmy.
--Dick
Estel, October 2019
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Visitors from the East - San Joaquin Gorge,
Yosemite
(Photos by Linda Estel and Dick Estel)
In
early April my
sister Linda and her wife Anne flew out from Duluth to Portland,
where Anne has a sister and a niece. After visiting there for a few
days they rented a car and took a leisurely drive down to Fresno,
stopping twice overnight. Daughter Teri has a large mobile home and
had invited Linda and Anne to stay at her house, so in the afternoon
of April 4 I went there to help greet them. Teri
fixed us a yummy dinner, and I also stayed there overnight, with the
rest of the family coming to join us the next day - Teri's sons
Johnny and Mikie, daughter-in-law Brittany and grandsons Colton and
Jack, Mikie's fiancée Haley, my daughter Jennifer from Oakhurst and
my daughters' mom, Jackie. We
had a good dinner and a nice visit, learning a great deal about the
weather and other conditions in northern Minnesota, and the
labor-intensive practice of making homemade maple syrup. Linda and
Anne have won prizes with their syrup at the Minnesota State Fair. Our
visitors had previously advised me that it is cold and bleak in
their area right now, and that they would enjoy a hike in the
foothills to see wildflowers, so on Sunday Teri, Linda, Anne and I,
joined by Teri's friend Maria, drove to the San Joaquin Gorge and
hiked a short distance on what we call the upper trail, but is
officially the San Joaquin River Trail. You
can follow this route high above the river for 14 miles
to Sky Harbor on Millerton Lake, but none of us have ever hiked that
distance, nor will we. We
were rewarded for our efforts by many species of wildflowers, as
well as acres of green grass, and the blue oak trees leafing out. |
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Dove lupine
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Blue dick
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Invasive thistles and a lichen-covered rock
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Overcoming adversity
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On
past hikes (when I was young and in my 70s) I always tried to go a
little farther each time I walked this trail. This time I went a lot
less distance than ever before. I'd love to blame my hiking companions, but
when they wanted to turn back, I was also ready. We had gone the distance that is
always my goal - half of far enough.
As
we often do after hiking at the Gorge, we stopped a few miles down the
road in the village of Prather, where Auberry Road joins State Highway
168. This is the location of Velasco's, an excellent Mexican
restaurant, where everyone enjoyed a delicious and well-earned lunch.
The
next day, Monday April 7, was the centerpiece of Linda and Anne's
visit to central California. When they first announced their plans to
visit the west coast, they offered to treat me to a night at the Ahwahnee
Hotel in Yosemite Valley. This iconic upscale facility was
opened in 1927, and has undergone upgrades and repairs, including some
extensive work in the last couple of years.
When
I attended Mariposa County High School, 40 miles from Yosemite Valley,
we had our proms at the Ahwahnee, so I had eaten there but never
stayed overnight. Linda skipped the proms but has had a long-time
desire to spend a night there. More about this
later.
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The iconic Ahwahnee Hotel
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Yosemite Falls and the hotel
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Linda
and Anne picked me up around 10 a.m. and we drove up State Highway 41,
through the town of Oakhurst at 2,000 feet and the village of Fish
Camp at 5,000. On a meadow beside the road here we saw a large patch
of snow, and after that there were small amounts of snow along the
road the rest of the way to the highest point, Chinquapin at 6,000
feet, where the road to Glacier Point leaves the main route. Here
there was quite a bit of snow on the hills above us.
From
this point the road descends 2,000 feet to the floor of Yosemite
Valley. Near the bottom it passes through the 4,233 foot long Wawona
Tunnel, and as you emerge you are greeted by the iconic view of the
valley, with El Capitan on the left, Bridalveil Falls on the right,
and Half Dome and Cloud's Rest beyond the upper end of the valley.
This
view is similar to that seen by the Mariposa
Battalion, believed to be
the first white men to see the valley, although they entered the area
at a point a few hundred feet higher in elevation.
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Tunnel View - El Capitan, Half Dome, Bridalveil
Falls
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Cloud's Rest at 9,926 feet is buried in snow
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After
enjoying the view here for a while, we drove down to the Bridalveil Falls
parking lot. A short trail leads up toward the base of the falls,
where heavy mist can leave visitors soaked when the falls is at its
peak. Recently a new viewing area was constructed, accessed by a
bridge across Bridalveil Creek. Although the falls looked big, it was
not peak season, and a small amount of mist proved to be "just
right." When there is a breeze, which is almost always, the falls
drifts from side to side, adding the the spectacular scene.
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Bridalveil Falls
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Dick, Anne and Linda at Bridalveil
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We
made a few short stops on our way to the hotel, mainly to look at the
park's highest waterfall, Upper Yosemite. Even with a good flow, the
breeze here also moved the fall from side to side.
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Upper Yosemite Falls drifts in the wind
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Lost Arrow stands out from the cliff a short distance east
of the falls
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We
finally arrived at the entrance to the hotel, where we were met by a
friendly and efficient valet parking staffer. It was about 15 minutes
before check-in time, but she called the front desk, and said that one
room was ready, and we could take all our luggage there. For just one
night we had only one bag each, and managed to carry them in
ourselves, taking the elevator to the 2nd floor.
The
rooms are nice, but nothing spectacular. Mine had two double beds and
a small sofa. The supersize room rates are for the view. We had a view
of Yosemite Falls
from both rooms. Rooms on another side of the building look out at
Half Dome. Rooms with less spectacular views cost less (but are
certainly not cheap).
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The view from our rooms at the Ahwahnee
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Seasonal falls cascades down the Royal Arches
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When
Linda first emailed me about this outing, I replied that I would buy
drinks at the bar, so once we settled in we went downstairs to that
facility. Anne had wine, Linda had gin and tonic, and I had a cinnamon
maple bourbon sour. Whiskey sours were our drink of choice early in my
marriage, but I have moved on to just bourbon and soda. My
experimental choice was OK, but next time I would ask them to leave
out the maple syrup.
We
had not finished our drinks when we received notice that our table for
dinner was ready, so we packed up and went to the grand
dining room. Due to remodeling, the kitchen is not fully
operational and there is no menu. However, the prime rib, tri-tip,
chicken and other offerings on the buffet were more than satisfactory.
We would also enjoy the breakfast buffet the next morning. Service was
impeccable - empty plates were removed within a minute, and
replacement silverware and napkins provided as needed without us
asking.
There
was a big moon that night, and I could look out and see the falls most
of the night. I could not see the movement of the water, but I could
see the white shape of the falls.
On
Tuesday morning, after breakfast, we went out for a walk. We followed
a path that led to cabins that are part of the hotel complex scattered among the trees, then cut across
to an official hiking trail. The hotel is located close to the
northern side of the valley, just down from a formation in the cliffs
called Royal Arches.
These are not technically arches, which implies an opening in the
rock, but instead an area where rock has broken off through
exfoliation, leaving a series of overhanging
curves. A stream, known as Royal Arches Cascades, runs down the
cliff face. Once on the trail, we found ourselves at a place where
this creek covers the way, and the trail is officially closed. Water
runs down in other locations also, as seen in the photo on the right
above. The dramatic North Dome is seen above the arches and the
waterfall.
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Royal Arches Cascade
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North Dome towers above the arches
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It
was approaching the 11 a.m. check-out time, so we walked back to the
hotel, packed up, called for the car, and turned in our keys (REAL
keys, not cards). We went out to the main road and drove around the
area that used to be called Government Center (maybe it still is).
This is the location of a visitor center, museum, grocery store, post
office, and employee residences. There was no parking available and
nothing we really wanted to see here, so we drove on to where there
was a nice view of Lower Yosemite Falls. Linda dropped Anne and I off
and went to find a parking place, which took her less than two
minutes. She soon joined us and we enjoyed views of the falls,
including one spot where we could photograph both Upper and Lower
Yosemite.
We
also stopped where we had a striking view of the front of El
Capitan, the world's largest granite monolith. A sign where we
parked said "follow the fence line to the view point." Since
we could see El Capitan very well from where we were, I followed to
see what view they were referring to, and saw that I was looking at the Cathedral
Spires, two fingers of rock that stand out from the cliffs on the
south side of the valley.
In
addition to rocks and water, we saw two coyotes. The first was in
Wawona, walking briskly along the side of the road, as if he was going
from the campground to the store to pick up some fresh rabbit. The
second came out of a meadow and walked on the road behind us near
where we had stopped to look at Upper Yosemite. Linda managed to
capture a photo
of him.
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Lower Yosemite Falls
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Between upper and lower, the creek drops
an additional 700 feet in a series of cascades
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El Capitan, living up to its name
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The Cathedral Spires
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In
this short visit, we had managed to see many of the valley's major
points of interest, including Ribbon Falls, the face of Glacier Point, the Merced
River, several ephemeral
seasonal falls (including Horsetail, which creates the rare
"firefall," and Silver
Strand, visible from Tunnel
View), and various meadows. As we drove homeward through the tunnel,
we made a final stop a quarter mile past it where we had a final view
of Half Dome and El Capitan. Bridalveil is hidden from this vista
point, but we could look across the Merced River Canyon at Cascade
Falls (AKA The Cascades), which tumbles down the north side of the
canyon west of the valley, culminating in a 500 foot vertical drop.
From
this place, we continued our 94 mile journey back to my house. Later
that evening I joined them at Teri's place, where we enjoyed a tasty
chicken dinner. The next day Linda and Anne were driving to Hollister,
which would be their base for a visit to Pinnacles
National Park, where they hoped to see condors. They did not see
any of these huge, elusive birds, but they saw squirrels, a wild
turkey, a rattlesnake, and later, otters in the ocean.
Their
next stop was at Asilomar near Monterey, a night at Half Moon Bay and finally a
flight from the San Francisco Airport back to Duluth, where they were
delighted to find warm weather and most of the snow melted.
--Dick
Estel, April 2025
More
Photos
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Edison Point Make-up
When
the Ramblers went to Edison
Point on
March 26, I was not able to hike yet, but I went along for the
ride, and sat at the trailhead reading, and walked around that level
spot for a minute or two. With the weather warming up on April 24, I
wanted to get in at least one more hike in the foothills, so I packed
a lunch and set off for Pine
Flat Reservoir, and walked the first half mile of this loop
trail to the point. This part of the trail is fairly easy, with some
gentle up and down. I've walked the entire loop, which is challenging
for all but the most physically fit hikers, and I had no desire to
repeat it.
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An old hiker on the Edison Point Trail
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Where the trail approaches the point
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Many
of the early flowers had gone to seed or wilted away entirely, but
there were still quite a few late-blooming species around. Probably
the most numerous were Mariposa Lilies, one of the foothills' most
beautiful blossoms. They do not grow in mass carpets of color, but
there were still more than I had ever seen before at this location.
There are purple
and yellow
variations, but the ones I saw were all the more common white.
Another
flower along the trail looks from a distance like a dandelion puff
ball, but on close examination can be seen as a round cluster of
blossoms, each with about ten long, slender white petals. I have not
been able to identify these, and they too were out in the greatest
numbers I've ever seen anywhere.
There
were flowers along the road that I did not see on the trail. The most
common was common madea, thick along Trimmer where the road goes past
the Oak Knoll store. The flashy blazing
star were in bloom along the road by the lake. There were plenty
of these plants along the trail, but none were in bloom.
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The glorious Mariposa lily
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These remarkable flowers need a name
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Purple brodiaea and common madea
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Another unidentified flower
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The
part of the trail I walked goes out the side of the hills to an
electrical transmission tower, which is part of (what else?) the
Edison Hydro Project. This section of the trail is actually a rough
dirt road that provides access to the tower. It extends along the
power line on the other side of Trimmer Springs Road, and I've walked
part of that route in the past, but it is very steep.
When
I finished my hike, I drove up the road about a mile to a place where
there is a big flat spot, set up my chair and enjoyed lunch with
a view of the lake. Storage was at 76% of capacity, up from the 65%
seen by the Ramblers a month earlier. The grass is still green, but
drying out fast. Flowers that were out in small numbers included
lupines, poppies, milkweed, and a couple of unknowns.
The
old saying about travel, that half the fun is getting there, was
certainly true on this date. There's not much fun while the road is
still in the flat valley, but as soon as it enters the hills and runs
parallel to the Kings River, there's plenty to see. The wildflowers
that line this part of the road are all busy making seeds for next
season, but a man-made object caught my eye. Between where the road
turns north away from the river and where it starts up the hills to
get above the dam, there has been an ancient shed that has looked for
decades like it could fall down at any moment.
Some
time during the past year it did indeed collapse. I stopped and took
photos in January of 2017, so of course I had to park and take a
series of "after" photos on this trip.
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In 2017 this ancient shed looked like it was ready
to collapse
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But it lasted until 2024
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My
hike was just over a mile total, a distance that is within my goal of
hiking one to two miles. The weather was warming up, but a cool down
was forecast, so I am already planning one final hike in April before
hot weather kicks in.
--Dick
Estel, April 2025
More
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Finegold Fishermen's Trail
I
hiked on this trail a
year ago for the first time, and with the weather staying fairly
cool, I wanted to make at least one more excursion into the foothills.
The starting point is the Finegold boat launch and picnic area on Millerton
Lake, just past Sky Harbor. It's an unofficial trail used
by cattle and fishermen that goes upstream along the Fresno County
side of the lake from the parking area. Last year I struggled to
assign one of my unofficial names to it, settling on the
unsatisfactory "Secret Trail." A year older and hopefully
wiser, I decided on Finegold Fisherman's Trail.
Access
from my house is to head north to where I can get on Auberry Road
north of Clovis. A
few miles from where it enters the lower foothills, I turn left on
Millerton Road, then right on Sky Harbor Road by the Table Mountain
Casino.
From
this point on there are views of late spring wildflowers and the
500,000 acre foot Millerton Lake, which is filled to 83 % of capacity.
The road goes through the Sky Harbor residential development and dead
ends at Finegold. There is a gate where the road drops down to the
parking lot and picnic area, but it's locked most of the time. This
seems foolish since the county collects an entrance fee for cars
that drive in, but there is free parking along the road, and a large
paved turn-around circle, and that's where I normally park. Walking
from this point down to the trailhead adds
just under two tenths of a mile to my hike.
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Lake Millerton and Friant Dam from Sky Harbor Road
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That cove across the water is where Finegold Creek
joins the lake
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As
expected, there were many species of wildflowers in evidence,
including a few samples of early bloomers and plenty of late season
blossoms. These included Mariposa lilies, fiesta flowers, an unknown
tall white species, fiddlenecks, dove lupines, farewell-to-spring, clarkia, baby blue eyes, thistle, owl clover, popcorn flowers, vetch, filaree, harvest brodiaea, purple brodiaea going to seed; phecelia,
and common madea.
The
flowers i decided were a variety of clarkia grew among the
farewell-to-spring, and were almost the same pink color, but closer
examination revealed the differences.
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I believe this is a species of clarkia
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Farwell-to-spring
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This elegant flower needs to be identified
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The last of the fiddlenecks
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A fallen and twisted bull pine
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A steep rough section of the trail
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My
goal for hiking distance these days is between one and two miles, and
I was happy to see that this one totaled 1.56 miles. Since
this is not a properly engineered trail, there are several short but
very steep sections, with loose dry soil, where I had to be extremely
careful to avoid slipping or falling. In all honesty, I probably will
not attempt this trail again, unless a method of reverse aging is
discovered. Not holding my breath.
Of
course, on the return journey the downhill sections were up hill,
which is easier walking, although harder on the lungs. And since the
world is full of ups and downs, there was one rough section that went
down on the return hike. Despite these challenges, I made it safely
back to my car and home, looking forward to more hiking in the near
future, probably at a somewhat higher and cooler elevation.
--Dick
Estel, May 2025
More
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Finegold North
This
is another of those unofficial trails upon which I have bestowed an
unofficial name. It starts at the Finegold Picnic Area, at the end of Sky Harbor Road. There is in fact an official trail that starts here, the San
Joaquin River Trail, that goes 14 miles to the San Joaquin Gorge
recreation area. I have walked a couple of miles on both ends of that
trail, but never the entire length.
Finegold
North is partly a fishermen's trail and partly an old road that starts
at the northwest corner of the turnaround loop at the end of the road,
goes down close to the high water line on Lake
Millerton, and around a point of land between the main lake and a
little cove below the road. It's short, offers mostly easy walking
with minimal up and down, and provides views of the lake and a few
wildflowers. It's also only 22 miles from home, making it a good
choice for a short, low-key outing throughout the winter and spring.
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Farewell-to-spring along Sky Harbor Road
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The little cove below the trail
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It
had warmed up to nearly 90 a few days earlier, and I thought my
foothill hiking was done for the year, but it cooled off again, so on
May 12 I drove out to Auberry Road, turned north on Millerton Road,
and got on the Sky Harbor Road. There were huge, thick patches of
farewell-to-spring in many places along the road, and the lake looked
like it was very close to full capacity. In fact, the California
Department of Water Resources web site showed it at 88%, up from
83% on April 28. There was a very cool breeze blowing upstream across
the lake, but I was comfortable with two t-shirts, a short sleeve and
long sleeve. Because hiking is warmer than sitting in my recliner, I
had considered wearing shorts, but when I saw how overgrown the trail
was, I was happy that I stuck with jeans.
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These tall yellow flowering plants are thick in
some places
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Would it surprise you that I brought home a ton of
stickers?
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With
more than a month of spring remaining, I hoped I would find at least a
few wildflowers still going strong, and I was not disappointed. After
the farewell-to-spring, the most common flower was Athurial’s spear.
This is a variety of brodiaea, sometimes confused with another variety
that I simply refer to as purple brodiaea. This one blooms early in
the spring, likes cool, shady, somewhat damp areas, and is a much
lighter purple than its relative.
Athurial’s spear is a deep purple color, has narrow, pointed petals,
and is perfectly happy to grow in fields of dry grass during the
second half of spring.
Also seen in abundance was locoweed, also called moonflower and datura,
a big-leaf plant that grows about three or four feet tall and produces
big, white lily-like blossoms, around four inches in diameter. I have
seen these in the upper foothills, at low elevations like this, and in
Zion
National Park
in Utah. They have been used medically by some societies, but are highly
toxic. Look, don’t eat.
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Athurial's spear
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Datura or locoweed
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There
were also a few lupines, poppies, fiddlenecks, filaree, and several
unidentified species. All in all, I was very pleased with this
late-season floral display.
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The last of the lupines
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A delightful specimin that needs a name
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My
total hike was a little over a mile, and a little over two hours in
duration. You can guess that I do not walk non-stop, but stop to rest,
to look at flowers, and to take pictures. It was a perfect hike for me
– close to home, not too hot, and I still had plenty of day left
when I got home.
--Dick
Estel May 2025
More
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