2024 Rambler Hikes Page 2

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San Joaquin Gorge SJR Trail         Sycamore Wildlife Area          Bass Lake Dam          Ahwahnee Hills          Balsam Forebay

San Joaquin Gorge - San Joaquin River Trail
(Photos by Wes, Dave & Dick)

For our first Ramblers hike in April, we went to a familiar place, the San Joaquin River Gorge Management Area. From the parking area you can hike down to the San Joaquin River (the Bridge Trail), or west on the San Joaquin River Trail, which parallels the river but is high above it. It goes 14 miles to the Finegold Picnic Area at the end of Sky Harbor Road by Lake Millerton. We don't walk that far.

Instead we make this an out and back hike, and go as far as we want, then turn back. In this case, we went a little over a mile each way, a pretty good workout for an older group of hikers on a warm day. Our group consisted of Wes, Don B, Ardyss, Susan S, Laurie, Dick, Dave and his daughter Megan.

As we prepared to hike, we were met by a ranger with the Bureau of Land Management, who proceeded to give us some helpful information (much of which most of us already knew). He explained the fee policy, $5 per car but no cost to those who had a Federal recreation pass; $10 for camping or $15 at sites with two picnic tables. He also advised us to stay on the trail - "you can see snakes on the trail, but not in the tall grass." Two members of our party were new to the area, I have been there well over a hundred times, and the rest have made a good number of hikes there. I did not mention that in all my time there, including backpacking and camping, I have seen only two snakes, one of them dead and one alive but not a rattler.

The grass is still fully green and the flowers beautiful, but not truly spectacular. Most of the usual species are represented, but in small numbers, with no big splotches of color. There are a number of places on the road in to the area where many bush lupines grow, bur with the exception of one small "forest" of brilliant blue blooms, most had already gone to seed. This was also true of many of the low-growing wildflowers along the trail. Nevertheless, we enjoyed every blossom, and have no complaints.

There were quite a few good size patches of mustang clover. They were too far off the trail for me to photograph, but Wes managed to get a good shot. The yellow harvest brodiaea was out in good numbers, and of course, we saw that old favorite, "unidentified."

The temperature was warm but not too hot, and we finished our hike before it hit its peak. We did take a few short jaunts off the trail, mainly where the grass was short. Snakes may have seen us, but we did not see them.

As we usually do when hiking at the Gorge, we finished our day with a delicious lunch at Velasco's Mexican Restaurant in Prather. I don't know about the others, but when I got home, I made up for missing my nap, realizing I had to rest up for the next Ramblers hike, only four days away.

--Dick Estel, April 2024

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The Ramblers hike schedule calls for two hikes each month in March, April and May, and maybe February if spring weather comes early. This ambitious program sometimes means two hikes close together. In the case of April 2024.only four days separated our two hikes, which partly contributed to the diminished attendance at the second one. After eight Ramblers hiked at San Joaquin Gorge on April 18, only three made the April 22 hike. Another Rambler, Dave Smith, was in the area, but for some reason, did not connect with Dick Estel, Susan Silveira and Laurie Fitzgerald.

Dave DID send us a link to photos he took of scenes along the road including Pine Flat Lake, the flowers, cows, and man-made artifacts.

Our destination was the Sycamore Wildlife Area, which is an official name, not one of the famous made-up designations that I create for places that seem to have no name, but need one. It consists of two former campgrounds and a former picnic ground between Trimmer Springs Road and the lake, all within a mile of each other about 45 miles from the Fresno-Clovis metro area. (Full disclosure: I am measuring from my house in Clovis. If you live west of Highway 99 in Fresno, you'd add about another ten miles).

I camped at this location a few times in the 1980s, but the camps have been closed for decades. However, foot travel is encouraged, and the old campground roads make for easy walking, with limited up and down.

If you're looking for the place, there is a large sign at the first camp, but none at the other two. The second is about a half mile or less past the first, and the third is literally just around the first bend from the second.

For our hike on this outing we went first to the #2 spot and made our way around the gate. Almost immediately we spotted four or five species of wildflower, including a good number of globe lilies, fiesta flowers, purple brodiaea, baby blue eyes and others. We also found what I've come to realize is a normal situation for foothill wildflowers, a few examples of species that are the first to appear, like fiddlenecks and blue dicks. It's as if  they hang around to say, "Hey, remember us? We used to be a big deal"

Once you walk in about a hundred yards, the trail (or old road if you prefer) is a loop that goes through typical foothill terrain - gentle ups and downs, live oak and blue oak, bull pines, manzanita, and numerous smaller shrubs and plants. The lake is the fullest it's been in several years, with still water backed up under the bridge over Sycamore Creek, a rare sight. 

The only wildlife we have seen on all our visits is birds and squirrels but there is plenty of domestic life. It is cattle country, and there were cows on the road in the first camp. We had to watch our step dodging evidence that cattle had also roamed the second camp. As we finished our hike, about five of the beasts crossed the road ahead of us.

It was our intention, or mine anyway, to walk through the old picnic ground, but the ladies had a prior commitment, so once we finished the first section, we said our goodbyes at our parking spot. I drove on to the picnic ground, carried my chair and lunch about 50 yards past the gate to a shady spot, and enjoyed my lunch with a view of more flowers and the lake. By the time I finished, it had become quite warm, but I wanted to check out one other feature. In 2020 we had spotted an eagle's nest with young birds in it, and I had taken a number of photos, including one showing one of the parents keeping watch in the top of a nearby pine tree, squawking all the time I stood on the trail.

This time I saw the nest, but no birds. However, I enjoyed this final part of the day's outing, and also stopped a few times on the way home to photographs flowers that grow by the road but not along the trails. At one point a hawk flew in front of my truck, no more then ten feet away as it passed. It was very low and I could see the bright red top of its outspread tail.

--Dick Estel, April 2024

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Wes said, "'Life is what happens when you're making other plans.' We planned to hike at the Ahwahnee Hills Regional Park on May 7, but found it closed. We all eventually decided to explore the Bass Lake area. We stopped along the way to record the lovely dogwood blooms.  We then hiked part way across the dam. It turned out to be a lovely day for us."

Four of us went to Ahwahnee, and conferred after being shut out. Dave decided to go on alone and explore other areas. That left Wes, Jackie and me (Dick) to complete the "official" hike.

At one point, as we were admiring one of the hundreds of dogwood trees along the road, we spotted a little waterfall, hidden back in the trees and bushes away from the road. Of course, we were obligated to stop, and Wes made his way down to the creek for a better shot, but couldn't really get as close as he would have liked.

Although Wes is a dogwood nut, there were other flowers which caught my eye. None were as big or showy as the dogwoods, but they served their purpose, both for the plant and for my own addiction to trying to photograph the smallest of flowers.

When we got to the dam, we were rewarded with views of a brilliant blue lake, big fluffy clouds, tree-covered hills, and perfect temperatures. Wes took a solo detour down to the base of the dam, not realizing he would have to bushwhack through a short brushy area where there was no clear path. When he climbed back up out of the canyon, we realized he was carrying one of the longest selfie sticks known to man.

We returned to Wes's Subaru SUV and started down hill from the dam toward the village of North Fork. We stopped briefly at Manzanita Lake, a PG&E property favored by day visitors and ducks. The latter had eagerly welcomed Dave when he stopped there earlier, but were disappointed that he had not brought lunch for them.

Wes, Jackie and I enjoyed a delicious lunch at the North Fork Pizza Factory, dining on the back patio with a view of the surrounding countryside. Our return trip took us through scenic foothill country on Road 200 out to State Route 41, and back to the big city. We were fully satisfied with the change in plans, and will finally go to Ahwahnee Park on our second hike later in May.

--Dick Estel, May 2024

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In this case, the second time was the charm. After missing out earlier in May due to "winter" hours, five Ramblers made the drive to the tiny village of Ahwahnee on Highway 49 between Oakhurst and Mariposa, and strolled through the oak covered territory that is Ahwahnee Hills Regional Park. Note that I said "stroll," because except for about 50 fairly steep yards at the end of the route, it's hard to justify the word "hike." Still, for the rest of this report, I'll stick with the traditional designation.

The Ramblers have hiked here a number of times, but this day's outing was a new experience for three of the five who made it. Dave Smith, Laurie Fitzgerald and Susan Silveira had never been there, while Wes Thiessen and Dick Estel were making at least their fifth visit.

As I've implied, the terrain is gentle, with just a few short ups and downs. There are some big open areas, and a long stretch where the trail goes through a shady forest of valley oaks. There is a very nice creek running through the property, and a pond where we usually see turtles. Trails cross and diverge in several places, so that your walk can be about a mile and a half or over three miles. No surprise that we chose the shorter way. There are also dedicated trails for horseback riding.

The weather cooperated so that we had clear blue skies, but were never too warm. The newcomers were duly impressed with the locale. And there were even a few wildflowers to brighten the drying fields.

As is our habit at this location, after the hike we went to the Hitching Post, less than a half mile from the park, and enjoyed an excellent lunch with matching service.

--Dick Estel, May 2024

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Recently daughter Jennifer texted me, asking if I had ever been to Balsam Forebay. In fact, I don't think I had ever heard of it, but texing back and forth I learned it is a small man-made lake between Shaver and Huntington Lakes, off Highway168. Then I found out that my older grandson has been there to fish a number of times. The website says it is a short, fairly level hike at around 6,500 feet, which sounded like a perfect Ramblers hike.

On July 23 a small contingent of hikers met at my house and headed to the mountains. There were two old standbys, Wes Thiessen and myself, Dick Estel; Keith Sohm, who hikes with us about once a year, and a brand new member of the group, Pam Frazier. She's a friend of Elsa Sweeney, another occasional Rambler, and despite this outing being somewhat of a baptism by fire, Pam says she will be a regular.

The website said that the trail starts at the Balsam Meadow Snow Park. There are two snow parks along the highway above Shaver, one on each side of the road, and our destination was on the left side going up. We drove in, parked, and looked for the trail. Nothing really matched the description on the web site, but we started walking down a dirt road that led west out of the parking lot.

We were not particularly surprised to be walking through a burned out landscape, a legacy of the Creek Fire in 2020. Between the blackened sticks, the land was covered with flowers and low brush, the natural start of the 100 to 200 year recovery period before the forest would be restored.

The hike is supposed to be just over a mile total, and after a little more than a half mile with nothing but the burned over hillsides all around us, we decided we were on the wrong path. The dirt road was in good condition, and Wes bravely volunteered to walk back to the parking lot, drive in to where we waited, and then we would explore a little farther by car. Our disappointment was tempered by the sight of numerous wildflowers, and although we eventually reached a tract of unburned forest, there was no sign of a body of water of any kind, so we moved on to Plan B.

We returned to the highway and drove back down toward Shaver Lake, looking for a likely turnoff. Pam found our location on her phone's GPS, and after another U-turn, we were directed to turn where a sign read "Private Property." A short drive on this road led us to a parking lot, the landmarks described on the web page, and a pleasant, nearly level trail that proved to be the way to the elusive Balsam Forebay.

Our thought was that we would walk just a short distance, but Wes and Keith set off at a fast pace, and soon arrived at the lake. Pam and I followed and caught up before they started back. We all enjoyed a brief look at this small body of water that is part of the Southern California Edison's Big Creek Hydroelectric Project. In fact, the private property was Edison land, but it was open to foot traffic, just no motorized vehicles, including Ebikes.

For the record, two different web sites describe the trail as starting at a snow park, and there is absolutely no sign or any other indication that where we parked was a snow park. It was also our 121st hike, and the only one where we have gone down the wrong trail.

At the parking lot, we spoke briefly with a family who were eating lunch at their car. The husband has been working in the area for about six years, cutting dead trees, while his wife and son had flown out from their home in Alabama for a visit. We noted that taking down all the dead trees just from the Creek Fire is a lifetime job.

We finished the day with our usual stop for lunch at Velasco's, an excellent Mexican restaurant in Prather, then returned to the 109 degree heat of our valley.

--Dick Estel, July 2024

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