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Dick's
Adventures of 2018 - Part 1 |
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Part 2 2018
Part 3 2018
Part 4 2018
Part 5 2018
Part 6 |
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Hensley
Camp Bear
Wallow Camp
Concrete Flats
San Joaquin Gorge Camp
Finegold Exploration |
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Hensley Camp For
the first adventure of the new year, I made reservations for January
5 - 7 at Hensley
Lake, on the Fresno River, 35 miles from home in the Madera
County foothills. As usual I made sure that the weather forecast was
favorable, and as often happens, the actual weather was different.
More about that later. My
daughter Teri planned to drive out the second day and spend the
night, and my older grandson and his family would come for a few
hours, with Colton and Jack (age 5 and 3) staying for the night. |
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Blue
oaks turning gold |
If
you can't watch actual TV, pretend TV is the next best thing |
The
slide had room for two |
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Since
it's such a short distance from my house to the lake, I went to my
usual Friday lunch with former work colleagues. The motor home was
loaded and ready to go, and as soon as I got back from lunch, I got
started, arriving at my camp site around 2:30. After getting
everything set up, I took my first walk, going up the hill behind my
campsite, where there is a good
view of the lake and much of the campground.
The
predominant tree in this country is the blue oak, a deciduous tree
that can lose its leaves early, or retain them longer than normal,
depending on rainfall. With record precipitation last winter and
spring, many of the trees still had all their leaves, but they had
changed from the bluish green that gives them their name to a brilliant
gold.
There
are two official trails at Hensley, but I didn't hike either one,
since we planned to do the longer one on Saturday with the boys.
After my hike I did a few short walks close to camp, a lot of
reading, some TV watching, and of course, eating - leftovers for
dinner plus popcorn.
By the
time I left home, the weather forecast called for a short rainfall
early the next morning, moving out before dawn. Therefore I was not
concerned when a gentle rain started around midnight, and lasted
until 2 a.m. I was a little less happy about the harder rain that
started about 7 a.m. and continued till about 9. I had put up my
awning to protect chairs and other outside items, but the second
storm was enough to send water running down the slight slope under
the awning.
Teri
arrived about 10:30, and since no further rain was expected, we
decided to walk the shorter trail, known as Shaw'shuck (hawk in the
local native language). This is a half-mile route that goes up to
the top of a hill, down a saddle, across to another hilltop, and
back down to the starting point. After completing the loop we still
had plenty of energy, so we walked all the campground loops, giving
us a total of just under two miles. Along the way we took a side
trip to check out playground equipment on a hill on the opposite
side of the campground. We noted that there were water drops
clinging to all parts of the equipment, with puddles at the bottom
of the two slides. Since we planned to bring the boys here, we knew
we should bring a towel.
Back
at the motor home we did the usual camping activities of reading,
resting and snacking. About 1 p.m. Johnny, Brittany, Colton and Jack
arrived. One of the first things the boys have to do is climb
up into the bed over the cab of the motor home, at least 87
times up and down. Jack had a little trouble getting down at first,
trying to come down face first. I had him turn around, guided his
foot to the top of the driver's chair, after which he was able to
make his way down. He needed no further help. The boys immediately
invented a game in which they climbed up, slept, woke up, watched
TV, and went to work, each phase lasting about five seconds. Repeat,
repeat, repeat.
Next
we set out for the playground. It is a good quarter mile walk from
camp, so of course I forgot the towel. Fortunately I remembered
after we had gone only 100 yards, and went back for it. It was well
worth the effort - although the breeze had dried off the vertical
surfaces of the equipment, the puddles remained in the slides.
Brittany swept most of the water off with her hand and I dried the
spot as well as possible. The boys took care of the rest, sliding
down a dozen or more times each, as well as climbing
up the various ladders.
After
returning to camp, the adults sat outside visiting, while the kids
busied themselves in the motor home. At one point I realized that it
was very quiet inside - "too quiet," as parents have been
saying since the discovery of the two-room cave. I went in to check
on them. Although they didn't do any serious harm, they had opened
the brief case I use to bring reading material, DVDs, etc. They had
taken three DVDs out of their cases and put all three into a single
sleeve, losing one of the jewel cases in the process. I asked where
it was, but of course, they had no idea. I did not find it until I
got home and took out a notepad that I always keep in the briefcase,
and found the case at the very bottom.
Eventually
it was time for Johnny and Brittany to leave. This caused some
anxiety on the part of the boys, who decided they didn't want to
stay, although both have spent one or two nights camping with Teri
and/or me. As mom and dad drove off, Teri distracted Colton by
starting up the hill back of camp. He had been part way up several
times while playing, and ran up ahead of her, being rewarded with
the sight of a rabbit as he neared the top.
Jack
started slowly walking down the road, following the truck, which by
now was well out of sight. I caught up with him and started leading
him back. We discussed sleeping in the motor home that night, and
when he realized he would be sleeping in the upper deck bed, his
face brightened, and soon we made our way up to the top
of the hill to join Teri and Colton.
After
the boys climbed around on the small rock formations on the hilltop,
we made or way down to the road north of camp and went to Rabbit
Rock. This is a large outcropping of granite boulders mixed with
small bushes where I often see rabbits, although our loud approach
made any sightings this day impossible. This was no disappointment
for Colton and Jack, as they discovered other activities,
particularly scraping
moss off boulders, and pulling clumps of dried grass up by the
roots.
Returning
to the road, we walked down toward the boat ramp, then off into the
rocks and grass to the east, where more moss scraping took place.
From here it was a short walk back to camp. Although we had no more
rain, it stayed cloudy all day, and was plenty cool for a campfire.
While Teri fixed supper, the boys and I got the fire going. The
picnic table was right next to the fire ring, and we enjoyed outdoor
dining as it grew dark.
As it
got colder and the fire died down, we moved inside for the night.
Then began a fun evening activity. I have a large box of dominoes
in the motor home, and the boys play their own version of the game,
matching numbers but not worrying about the official rules. This led
to setting up rows of dominoes and watching them fall, which led to
looking up "dominoes falling" on You Tube on my iPad. Here
we discovered a number of videos, some featuring as many as a half
million dominoes, and lasting ten minutes. This
one is short but impressive.
When
it was time for bed the skies had cleared, so we all went outside
for a good but short stargazing session. The boys then climbed into
the deck and played for about five minutes before settling down, and
soon were asleep, having put in several hours of vigorous activity
during the day. Teri and I soon followed them to dreamland, and a
delightful day came to an end.
The
next morning I fixed hot cocoa, which Jack and Colton have come to
expect when they have breakfast with me. Teri and I had bacon and
muffins, and the boys had their standard
breakfast of Cheerios, with Jack adding raisins to his. Once
everything was cleaned up and put away, Teri and the boys headed
back to town in her car, and I soon followed. We never got around to
hiking the Pohonichi Trail, the one mile loop on the north side of
the area, so we will have to return again soon.
Dick
Estel, January 2018
Hensley
Camp Photos |
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Bear
Wallow Camp
I made
my first hike to Bear Wallow in January of
1980, accompanied by future son-in-law Tim Liddle (now
Teri's husband). The starting point is three
miles up the dirt road that goes from Trimmer Springs road to Garnet
Dike on the north side of the Kings River. The destination is an
area where the steep terrain of Rogers Ridge sort of levels out to a
huge knoll, with a couple of creeks, and a steep rise to the north.
During our six-mile hike (each way), as we passed through a thick
grove of trees we startled an owl, which flew very close to us on
his way to a safer spot.
I made
my most recent hike on the trail on January 23 of 2018, with a much
more modest goal. The trail appears to have been realigned in spots, and leads
to a vista point about a mile and a half from the trailhead, much
more in line with my current hiking capabilities. Since nothing has
been done to alleviate the steep hillsides that mark this area, I
did not get all the way to my destination. But more about that
later. |
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My camp
site is hidden in the trees in the lower center |
The
trail was a narrow green strip that went up steeply, then wound
around the contour of the hills |
Looking
down stream from my camp site |
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During
the week leading up to my trip, I thought I would have to postpone
it. The weather forecast consistently called for rain the first and
second day. Then the forecast changed, and when it came time to make
a decision, a brief rainstorm was expected early Monday morning, with clouds the
next two days, but no further precipitation until Wednesday evening.
On the morning of departure, the forecast was even better - no rain
that day or any other till the evening after I would be back home.
As it turned out, not even the clouds materialized, and there were blue
skies until just before I started home.
The
road to my campsite is rough and rocky in spots, so it was to be a
pickup camping trip, something I started doing again in late summer
of 2016. I got started about 9:30 a.m. on January 22, with the temperature at 47
degrees in Clovis. With a few stops to take
pictures by the lake, the 60 mile drive took a
little over two and a half hours. Of course, 20 miles or more are on
the winding road along the shore of Pine Flat
Lake, and the final
three miles required low or second gear driving at 5 to 15 MPH. When
I arrived it
was 61 degrees, which was pretty much the high both days.
Back
in the day there were no official campsites on the north side of the
river until the end of the road, eight miles in. There are now at
least two and maybe others beyond where I went. I was at Bear Wallow
Group Camp, a group of one, but no one else was around. There are
only three campsites, and the metal fire ring on one was tipped over and
not usable. The road runs along the Kings River all the way to roads
end at Garnet Dike Campground, so I enjoyed the sound of running
water throughout my time there.
Setting
up camp with the truck is a lot more effort than with the motor
home. First of all, everything in the bed of the pickup has to be
moved somewhere else to make room for my mattress pad. I brought my
card table, and set a lot of things on it. Some had to go on the
ground, and my camp stove went on the picnic table. Stuff in the
passenger areas, such as my brief case, clothing bag, and other odds
and ends, can stay where they are.
About
an hour after I arrived I set out on my first hike, a short
exploratory trip to the Bear Wallow Trailhead, which was two tenths
of a mile from camp. I walked up the trail about 100 feet, then down
across a
drainage, up the steep bank, and over a ridge back to the
main dirt road, then back to camp, a little over a half mile walk
that took 40 minutes (but only 22 minutes of actual moving time,
according to my walking app).
I had
an early supper of crackers, peanuts and vegetables, and did some
reading. About 3 p.m. the sun passed behind a high hill on the
opposite side of the river to the south, and it was officially
sunset at camp, resulting in a quick drop in temperature. It was 56
degrees with a strong upstream wind shortly after the sun
disappeared, and 51 degrees at 4:20. By this time I had a campfire
going, and I realized I had not brought enough wood. There was
nothing but small branches around the camp, and I was wondering if I
would be driven into the sleeping bag at 7:30. I wanted to use only
half my wood and save some for the next day, but finally decided to keep the
fire going as long as I could and deal with tomorrow, tomorrow.
What
with putting things away a little so they would not get wet from the
dew and a
walk in the dark to the bathroom (about 300 yards away), it was
close to 8:30 before I finally climbed into the back of the truck
and got into my sleeping bag. I have to get up several times each
night, and every time I did I was treated to a fantastic star
display and some very cold temperatures. The final low reading, at
6:30 a.m., was 29 degrees, and it was barely up to 32 when I finally
got up at 8:30. I put my chair and TV tray in a sunny spot and had tea
and an orange, then fixed breakfast, which I also carried out to the
sunshine.
By the
time I got things put away from breakfast and got my boots on it was
close to 10:30, and time for my big hike of the trip. The sign at
the trailhead says it is "about" a mile and a half to the
vista point. The trail goes relentlessly up hill, with a series
of switchbacks leading up several hundred feet in elevation, then a
gentler path around the contours of the canyon. Along much of the way
I had views of the
river and the ridge on the south side, as well as a campsite
located on a big
flat area on the opposite side of the river.
I started out with a
long sleeve t-shirt and a sweatshirt, but took off the top layer as
soon as I came to a place where I could lean my backpack against a
fallen blue oak branch. I didn't check the temperature, but I
estimate it got up around 65 degrees.
It's
been over 30 years since I last hiked on the Bear Wallow Trail, so I
don't remember every detail, but it seemed to me that part of it had
been realigned - routed around a different side of a knoll or
something like that. For a while I was concerned that I had taken a
false trail, so I was glad to see a
sign with an arrow pointing to the left that read
"trail."
Eventually
I reached a spot with some good rocks for sitting and eating lunch.
At this time I realized I had to reconsider whether I was going to
try to continue on to my destination. I could see two hilltops nearby that
could serve as vista points, and it seemed clear that it would take
at least another hour to reach either of them. I realized that I had
gone what I call "half of far enough," and decided to
start back after eating. This still gave me a respectable 2.48 mile
round trip hike. I found a large moss-covered rock that served as a
seat for eating and a spot for a brief nap. I walked up a side trail
nearby to get a couple of photos, then started back down the trail.
A
short distance down the trail I spotted an oak tree with a good size
burl. I always try
to photograph these interesting natural growths, but this one was
partially hidden by branches. Even so, the
photo turned out better than I expected.
The
return trip was much easier on the lungs, even though I still had to
be aware of my footing on the narrow path. As I got close to the
bottom, it looked as if the sun was going to be out of sight in my
camp, and since it was just after 3, that was indeed the case. I was
not very hungry so I ate the rest of the sandwich I had not finished
on my lunch stop, along with some vegetables and orange slices.
Then I
contemplated what I was going to do about the fact that the
temperature was slowly but steadily dropping. I had used all the
"store-bought" wood I brought on the first evening, and the
pickings for native firewood were very slim. I found a few pieces of
dead live oak and blue oak that were thin enough to break, but that
meant that they were little more than kindling. I noticed that there
were a lot of dead bush lupines in the area, and broke off a couple
of them. They consisted of a very bushy top of small twigs, but both had a base
close to two inches in diameter and about two feet long. This
constituted my wood pile for the evening.
I put
off starting the fire until it was dark, then added the various
pieces, alternating small sticks with my few larger pieces, and
managed to have a fairly warm fire till about 7:30. At the end I was
sitting as close as I could get, drawing a small amount of warmth
from the dying coals. Of course, I was wearing several layers, including a sweat shirt with a close fitting hood that served as my pajama top
during the night as well.
Both
nights I was nice and warm in my sleeping bag. I wore thermal
underwear and flannel pajama bottoms, and three layers on top. It
was the first time I had slept in the hooded sweatshirt, and from
now on it will be regular sleepwear in temperatures like this, since
it kept my head covered. I keep a bottle of drinking water next to
my bed wherever I am, and the water was much colder than when I take
one out of the refrigerator. I would guess that the temperature
inside the camper was between 32 and 35. The last morning there was
frost on the lower part of my sleeping bag, where it extended out of
the camper on to the tailgate. (With a full-size back seat, my truck
has a five and a half foot bed.)
The
terrain here is interesting and a bit unusual. Above Trimmer
Campground on the lake, the river enters a narrow, steep canyon. At
Bear Wallow trailhead you are many miles into the mountains, but the
elevation is very low - 1,100 feet there and 1,700 at the highest
point I hiked. The descent of the river is very gradual - about ten
feet per linear mile. The river flows in sweeping curves, and over
the centuries has created flat
areas in many places by the river.
Often these support a few ponderosa pines, whose seeds have been
carried downstream from their usual 3,000 foot elevation. In these
broad gravel flats the river has often created secondary channels,
which will have a small flow of water when the river is low.
Willows,
sycamores and various small shrubs line the banks, with some live
oak and a few valley oaks up away from the river bed. On the steep
hillsides, blue oaks dominate on the sunny north
slope, while the
more shaded south slope also includes buckeye, poison oak, and other
small bushes, along with a good number of blue oaks.
These
conditions continue upstream at least another seven miles. At the
end of the dirt road, eight miles in from the paved road, a trail
goes up river about eight miles. The trail is fairly level for the
first two miles, running along the river. Then the canyon becomes so
narrow that the trail was constructed to go up along the steep slope
in a series of switchbacks. Eventually it reaches a highland, and
goes up and down over a series of ridges that run perpendicular to
the river. I've backpacked as far as Garlic Meadow Creek, about six
miles from the trailhead, but have not gone much past this spot, so
I don't know for sure how much farther the trail goes.
Given
the weather and the isolation, this was a quiet area. While I was
there, one vehicle drove into the campground, turned around and
left. I saw two or three other vehicles on the main road during the
daytime, and one on each side of the river driving out at
night. I would not care to drive on either of those roads in the
dark.
Wildlife
spotted included a few squirrels and birds, and a nice green
and orange frog about half way up the trail.
Although
it was not that big a deal that I did not reach my objective on the
big hike, it was still annoying. By the time I finished this report,
I had come up with a strategy for finishing the hike on my next
attempt. Of course, it would be bad luck to reveal it, so watch for
another report someday titled "Back to Bear
Wallow."
--Dick Estel, January 2018
Bear
Wallow Photos |
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Concrete Flats
On
this trip I did something I've never done before. On the way to go
camping, I stopped to go hiking. Of course, stopping on the way to a
destination to look around and take pictures is normal. But this was
a "put on boots, pick up the pack, get out the poles, head up the
trail" actual hike.
In
addition, my camping destination was, while not new, a place I have
not camped at in decades. If I say the place name to anyone in my
immediate family or to certain friends, they know exactly what I'm
talking about. But for the general public (including most of you)
the place name will be unfamiliar. I'll explain why after you look
at these photos. |
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The view
to the south from Sycamore Fire Road |
One of
two little waterfalls on Big Creek |
Concrete
Flats |
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We
first camped at the place we named Concrete Flats in April of 1984,
but the story starts even earlier than that. The Big Creek Road goes
more or less north from Trimmer Springs Road by Pine Flat Lake
at about 900 feet elevation, and runs beside Big Creek for several
miles to 1,200 feet. It then winds up out of the canyon and
eventually goes into the upper canyon of the creek at about 3,000
feet. About a mile before the road re-joins the creek, there is a big
gently sloping meadow, part of a sort of shelf about
a mile in width. The land drops off sharply to the south of
the meadow, and rises up steeply on the other three sides.
In
January of 1984 my friend Tim and I camped at this meadow, wandered
around the hills and trails nearby, and generally enjoyed
discovering a new camping place. Then came the wind. As it grew
dark, a strong wind began to flow down the slope, eventually
becoming so strong that we huddled by the fire and tried to use my
Datsun pick-up as a windbreak, with little success. The flames of
our campfire became horizontal for the rest of the evening. The weather
caused us to name this spot Minnesota Flats.
Assuming
the wind was an anomaly, I went there again in April, with daughter
Teri, first husband Johnny, and Tim coming up to join me the next
day. Once again the wind rocked the truck all night as I tried to
sleep, and when the others arrived I met them by the road and told
them we needed to find a different place for that night's camp. We
drove back down the road to a place where people have camped beside
the creek, and I'm not sure why we didn't choose that spot. Instead
we drove up a rough driveway on the opposite side of the road, where
we found a large man-made flat area with an old concrete foundation
and some cement piers. There was a fire ring, with a flat piece of
metal set up to reflect heat back on the camper. We set up camp here, named it Concrete Flats,
and it became a favorite spot for a number of years. Teri was
pregnant with my older grandson Johnny at the time, and he also had
his first camping trip here in April of 1985, at the age of eight
months.
Our
last attempt to camp here was in March of 1999, one of younger
grandson Mikie's first camping trips. The spot by the creek was
occupied, and the Concrete Flats site had turned into a disgusting
garbage dump, so we found a place a mile or so farther up the road.
I have visited this area on day trips since, but that was our last
campout. In mid-February I decided it was time to try again, with
plans to camp wherever it was suitable.
I left
home at 9 a.m. on February 12, and stopped first at what we call
Sycamore Fire Road for a hike. I've written about this location
several times, starting in
2014 and most recently in February
and March
of 2017. The "trail" is an old dirt road which has not had
any kind of maintenance for many years, and which has essentially
turned into a trail. It rises a total of about 300 feet in
elevation from
where I started to the farthest point I have gone, with gentle ups
and downs and only a couple of very short spots that could truly be
called steep.
With
the warm, dry winter we've been having, flowers are out early, and I
saw a dozen or so species on the hike and the camping trip, but none
in large numbers. These included fiddlenecks, popcorn flowers, bush
lupine, manzanita, filaree, and fringed
redmaids.
I
spent about two hours on this adventure, enjoying a snack while
sitting on a log that has fallen across
the road. A short distance past this spot the road crosses a
creek and goes up a short steep rise to a big meadow, the farthest I
have gone. As I came up into the meadow, I startled a herd of about a
dozen cows who took off out of sight at a moderate but steady
pace.
I got back
to the truck and on the road at 12:30, having hiked about a mile and
three quarters. It's not far
from Sycamore Creek to Big Creek, where I left the paved road for
the four and a half mile drive to Concrete Flats. This part of the
Big Creek Road is one of the better quality dirt roads, wide enough
for two vehicles to pass most of the way, lacking deep ruts, and
"smooth" for a forest road. It is rougher and narrower
beyond Concrete Flats, but still above average.
When I
arrived at the camp area, I immediately saw that the driveway up to
the Flats was much more rutted and rough than in the past. The
original route looked to be impassible except with an aggressive
4-wheel drive vehicle. A new alternate route next to it was not much
better, and where they came together just below the top there was another
very rough section. I walked up the driveway, which immediately
convinced me that I would be in trouble if I tried it in my
two-wheel drive Ford F150. The place seemed to be a little cleaner, but
still a big mess. There was no evidence of the fire ring we had
used, and I doubt that anyone is doing any camping there.
On the
other side of the road three short driveways go down to an almost
level spot about 100 feet from the creek, a place I think we camped
at once. None of these driveways was particularly good, but I felt I
could drive down any of them, and out on at least one. However, I
decided to drive farther up the road to see what things were like.
In
1987 we made the acquaintance of Jim Montgomery, who with his
brother Loren had a mining claim in the area and lived in a
makeshift cabin about a quarter mile back a side road between the
camp site and the place where the road crosses Big Creek. The
brothers have been gone for many years and their cabin has been
removed.
I had walked back the road in
2013, but at the time I was not looking for a camp site, so I
thought maybe it was usable, and walked in. It didn't take long
before I came to two spots that were not passable with my truck, and
the cabin site itself was full of trash left by shooters -
ammunition cartons, shredded paper targets, clay pigeons (whole and in fragments), beer
cans, etc
I
walked back out and continued up the road, crossing Big Creek and
starting uphill. I could not identify the place we camped in 1999
with any certainty, but I think I found it, and it was not useable,
a fence having been built that left only a narrow strip along the
road. A little farther there is a fork in the road, where going left
takes you up to Minnesota Flats, back into the canyon of Big Creek,
and eventually out to Highway 168 a few miles below Shaver Lake.
Instead I took the right fork which eventually leads to Ross
Crossing on Dinkey Creek, where roads go in several directions. My
destination was only about a half mile, down to Nutmeg Creek. I had
noticed Nutmeg Camp on the map, and I found it easily just before
the bridge, but there was a 5th wheel trailer and a tent trailer
there, so I drove out and started back to the Concrete Flats area.
Along the way I stopped in several places and walked short distances
on dirt roads that went oft the main road. Most were impassible for
my truck, and none led to any good camping spots.
I had
already studied the three driveways and was fairly certain I could
get out the one farthest south. When I got back to the area, I
drove in the northernmost driveway, through the camp, and out the
other one, my thinking being that if I could not make it, I had two
days to flag someone down for help. As expected, I got out with no
difficulty, drove back in, and began to set up
camp.
I went
down by the creek, and was glad to see that it was running fairly
good. Then I wandered around the area, mainly looking for firewood. I
didn't collect any at this time, but I marked in my mind a spot where there was
some dead manzanita, and also some blue oak branches that were not
too big to handle. I had brought hot dogs to cook over the fire, but
I was ready to eat before I was ready to start the fire, so I heated
them on my propane stove and had an early supper.
Like
at my camping spot in January, the sun went behind the hills fairly
early, but a little later in this case, around 4:30 instead of 3:00. The temperature
dropped immediately, and continued to do so until the sun came up
the next day. In fact, let me tell you about the weather. I was
originally going to go on Monday, then it looked like going Sunday
would let me avoid a predicted rain storm. As usual the forecast
changed, so I ended up waiting till Tuesday. The storm was supposed
to move out by then, leaving some clouds with low temperatures
around 40 degrees, ten degrees warmer than my last trip.
Everywhere
I drove and walked, there was no evidence of recent rain, and it was
clear night and day. This of course meant colder nights. It was 38
degrees at 6 p.m. and 33 at 8, not long before I went to bed. It
cooled off even more during the night, dropping down to 24 degrees
at 6 a.m., and still in the 20s when I got up at 8:30. Of course,
there was frost all around, and a little ice in my water jugs. My
first act each morning after getting dressed was to hurry up to the
road where there was sunshine, and stand there warming up. The sun
didn't hit my camp for quite a while, so I took my chair up to the
road and enjoyed my morning drink with the sun on my back (bloody
Mary the first day; tea the second). By the time I finished, there
was a sunny spot in camp where I could sit at my card table and
enjoy breakfast.
It's
not healthy to engage in strenuous activity right after eating, and
I think starting my hike immediately after breakfast on my last trip
contributed to the problems I had going as far as I wanted. After
breakfast the first morning, I made several slow trips up the road a
short distance (800 feet round trip), and brought back a good pile
of manzanita and blue oak. Near where I got the oak, I spotted a
blue oak with a
large burl, one of many that appear throughout the foothills.
There
was some firewood at the camp, much of it too big to use without a
chain saw, but there were about five pieces of what looked like
fruit wood. With this and a box of commercial wood I had brought, I
was able to keep a good fire going the first night until it was time to get ready
for bed. The second night the fire lasted even longer, with another
commercial box plus what I gathered in the morning.
Once
the wood gathering was finished and the breakfast dishes rinsed, I
was ready for the "big hike" of the day. There are no
actual trails in this area, so my plan was to walk up the road to
the bridge where the road crosses Big Creek. Just upstream from the
bridge there is a huge "hanging" boulder that looks to be
suspended between the rocky cliff on one side and several smaller
boulders below it in the creek. After taking pictures from the
bridge, I went up from the road to where you can walk out and look
down into the creek and down on the boulder. It's also possible to
get down to the creek from this spot, but since I did that when I was
much younger, I didn't feel the need to repeat the feat.
Instead
I found a nice flat rock where I sat and had my snack. I took more
pictures, and headed back to camp, stopping along the way wherever
the scenery caught my
eye, ending up with a hike of a little over a
mile and a half. Leaving my pack behind, I then walked up to the
actual Concrete Flats location, then up to another flat spot above
there where we used to be able to drive. Like all the other roads
around the Flats, it was not anything I would try driving on now.
In
this area, on my hike, and on the slope above the road where I
gathered wood I saw a number of wildflowers, including baby blue
eyes, fringed redmaids, filaree, and fiddlenecks. Along Big Creek
Road and Trimmer Springs Road there were a lot of bush lupines and
poppies in bloom.
One of
the more interesting events was a visit from a hummingbird, who came
in and flew around and down into the fire ring during the daytime.
He returned the second night when I had the fire going and flitted
around just outside the rocks surrounding the fire. I thought
perhaps he had been attracted by the bright orange pieces of clay
pigeon that were everywhere I went, although there were none in the
fire ring itself.
The
first night I was warm enough all night except for my toes - the
pickup bed is only five and a half feet, so the bottom of the
sleeping bag, and thus my feet, are outside the camper shell. I put
on a third pair of socks around 3 a.m. The final night I put on all
three pairs before going to bed, and it helped, although my toes
were pretty cold by 6 a.m. Looking at a list of previous camping
trips, I discovered that we had experienced lows of 22 and 19 at
Concrete Flats in the past, so it's definitely a place that's colder
than you'd expect for 1,200 feet. On my trip it was only one degree
warmer than Shaver Lake at the 5,000 foot level.
On the
final morning I repeated my pattern of hurrying up to the road for a
a quick sunshine fix, then sat by the road while I had tea and an
orange. It was warming up and there was sunshine at camp as I cooked
bacon and toasted muffins for breakfast. I loaded things up at a
leisurely pace, and started for home about 12:30. It took quite a
while to get out to the main road, however. There are a couple of
small waterfalls on the creek, and I stopped to take pictures of
them, as well as poppies and lupines. I also walked up to one of the
concrete and rock structures that appear in at least six of the
drainages that run into Big Creek from the west. One of these has
concrete steps, and most of them have a large basin, various valves
and rock artifacts whose purpose is not obvious. I've heard that
they were used to measure water runoff before Pine Flat Dam was
built. I walked up one of them that I had not visited before, and
found it nearly identical to the one next to it that is more easily
accessible via a crude concrete stairway.
Trying
to account for all the hiking, wandering around, wood gathering and
exploring possible campsites, I calculated that I got in 5.59 miles
of walking. I enjoyed seeing how many wildflowers are out, and
re-visiting an area where I camped a dozen times or so back in the 20th
century.
--Dick Estel, February 2018
Concrete
Flats Photos
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San Joaquin Gorge
Camp
This
was a Rambler Hike, sandwiched into a Dick's Adventure. Although the
number of people involved was small, the fun was enormous, and we
were undaunted by the threat of rain. I drove my motor home to the
San Joaquin River Gorge on Sunday, February 25, and Teri came up
with grandson Colton. Teri hiked with us that day, then left for
home.
The
next day Colton and I were joined by Wes Thiessen for the scheduled
Rambler hike. Wes's comments below serve as a good introduction and
an explanation of why we had so few Ramblers for this favorite spot. |
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Everything
is nice and green |
Colton
and Teri hiking up the hill |
Two and
a half Ramblers at the Big Burl |
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As so
often happens with winter hiking and camping plans, I spent a lot of
time the week before the trip looking at weather forecasts.
Eventually the best we could hope for was mostly sunny weather the
first day, with a 30% chance of rain the next day, when we were
going to hike with the Ramblers. We liked these odds and decided to
go ahead with our plans, which turned out to be a good idea.
I got
started from home about 9 a.m., stopping along the last stretch of
road into the Gorge for a quick look and photo of the snow
on the mountains. I arrived at the group camp area at
the Gorge a little after ten and had just got started
setting up when Teri and Colton arrived. Teri got out his bike and he began riding around the parking lot, while she helped me
level the motor home.
We
then went on a two-part hike, none of it on the "regular"
trails at this location. First we went up to the road, across the
cattle guard and cross-country up the hill to the south of the
camping and parking areas. It's a fairly short, moderately steep
walk to the top of a little knoll. Above this spot, the terrain
rises very steeply up to a ridge, the sort of place that would leave
you out of breath after five or six steps. Wisely we went across the
slope to the west, checking out the various trees, bushes and
wildflowers. Manzanita and chaparral (AKA buck brush) were in bloom,
and we had seen some redbud blossoms along the road coming in. The
blue oaks were decked out in brilliant bright
green new foliage.
Following
cow paths, game trails and our finely honed foothill hiking
instincts we went perhaps 300 yards before starting downhill through an
open area not blocked by brush. This took us to a well-worn cow path
along the fence that parallels the road, and back to the cattle
guard. From there we walked back to
camp, where we enjoyed a well-earned snack.
When
Colton and his brother camped here with us last
year, one of their favorite things was the frog pond, a few
hundred yards from our camp, and of course, Colton wanted to check
it out next. We went down the shortcut trail between the group and
equestrian camps, then through the grass to the pond. It was
disappointing to all of us to find that there was not one drop of
water, so no frogs or salamanders. We've had a very dry winter, and
foothill creeks and ponds tend to be dry. After walking across the
pond, we followed a trail that goes toward the road to the visitor
center. It joined the road right next to a gate, which was closed,
meaning access to the visitor center was by foot only, but it would
surely be closed. We stopped to look at a granite outcropping by the
road that contains at least 30 grinding
holes, indicating this was a
place where the natives processed acorns.
We
returned to camp, and Teri got ready to go, leaving Colton and me to
camp the next two nights. We were both willing and able to do some
more hiking, so I proposed we go down the Bridge Trail and look for
buckeyes. He had become interested in them when he saw them in bloom
last spring, and we collected a couple of seeds in the fall.
Typically the fallen seeds germinate on top of the ground, and I
was hoping to find some with their pinkish-white root showing or at
least a place where a bunch of little trees have started growing.
Colton
declared that he could walk a mile, which would mean turning back
before we reached the best spots for buckeyes. However, they are
scattered all over the foothills, and I knew we would see some in that
distance. We set off on a shortcut trail that starts across the road
from the group camp to join the bridge trail a few hundred yards down
from the main parking lot. We spotted the first buckeye bush just a short
distance farther, about 30 feet off the trail. We made our way down,
and I walked all the way around it, but found neither new trees nor
seeds.
The
same thing occurred with two other trees that I could get to, and I
am wondering if the lack of rain during the late fall and early
winter months meant that last year's seed crop had died. I guess
I'll have to go down to the prime buckeye sector before hot weather
arrives.
We
went as far as a spot I call Lupine Point, where several of these
bushes were starting to bloom. This ended up making our total hike
about one and a quarter miles. Although it was late in the day, after
3 p.m., we saw several groups of hikers just starting down, and met
others coming back up. In fact, the main parking lot was full much
of the day, and five or six cars parked across the lot from us at
the group camp. All were gone by the time it got dark.
Along
the shortcut trail I had noticed some dead bushes that looked like
they might have some good branches for firewood - tiny outer
branches for kindling, and some pieces we could break up that were
an inch or a little more in diameter. Colton is always very helpful
with jobs like gathering firewood, and we picked up a few branches
as we returned, then left our hiking poles at camp and came back to
the spot for an even bigger load. We also had a box of
"store-bought" wood for each night, since it's impossible
to find enough local wood in heavily used camping areas.
The
sun was low when we finished our hike, and the temperature started
dropping. We got the fire going, roasted hot dogs over the flames,
and enjoyed our supper next to the fire. We had a half moon, so
there was a lot of light, and the stars were not as bright as I
would like, but Colton is familiar with the Big Dipper which he
spotted, and I introduced him to Orion and to Sirius, the Dog Star. We finished
our meal with Klondike Oreo ice cream sandwiches for dessert. If you have not
tried these, my advice is to stick with regular Oreos or regular Klondikes.
Finally
we let the fire die down and went inside. I started the generator
and we watched an episode of The Simpsons. Colton had never
seen the show, and I was not sure how he would like it. Of course, a
lot of the jokes were beyond his understanding (fortunately!) but he
said he liked it. The proof came when we watched one the next night,
and when it ended he said, "Let's watch another one!"
These were the exact words used so many times by his uncle Mike when
he and I watched the show in his younger years. We then looked at a
book about the rain forest which I had picked up several months ago,
and which immediately became one of Colton's favorites. It was especially
fitting that the cover featured a jaguar, since we had seen those and
various other wild cats at Project
Survival's Cat Haven a few days before our camping trip.
Keeping
an eye on the sky throughout the day, I wondered if the forecast of
rain would prove wrong. It was sunny all day, and clear all through
the night, with the temperature getting down to 29 degrees. Since
it's usually about 10 degrees warmer in the motor home, my first act
when I got up was to turn on the heater. It works very well, and we
were soon very comfortable as we ate breakfast - Cheerios, toast and
cocoa for Colton; shredded wheat, muffin, and milk for me. After
breakfast we took the first of several walks to the cattle guard,
where Colton enjoys crossing
carefully and swinging on
the gate.
A Ramblers
hike was scheduled for this date, and a version of this next
section appears on the Rambler
Hike 2018 Page 1. By late Sunday, various problems had forced
all our members except Wes to cancel, but he arrived promptly at 10
a m., ready for another one of our "all-boy" hikes. The
notes he emailed after the hike serve as a good start to the next
part of this report:
Some of you may have watched the television sitcom,
Two and A Half Men. Today the Ramblers channeled that comedy with one of our own. Initially we planned for six Ramblers to participate in this hike. One by one this number was whittled down due to illness, disability or family commitment. In the end, it appeared just Dick and I would be hiking. But stepping in
to save the day was
five-year old Colton, Dick's great grandson. When I heard Colton would join us in the hike, I wondered if he could keep up with the adults. Halfway through the hike my thought changed to: "Will this old man be able to keep up with Colton?" He was like a trail blazing rocket man leading the way. At some point his tanks fell empty and he needed many rest stops to make it back to camp and a pizza lunch. Along the way Colton was very entertaining, marking a big X where hidden treasure could be found and giving orders about which trails to take. In short, our 2 and 1/2 man hike was a hoot!
It didn't rain during our hike but the sky was
dark and
threatening. The
sun tried hard but couldn't quite shine through the clouds as you will see in some of the photo images. We were able to see small clusters of traditional wildflowers. But the predominate flower was found on the
buck brush which was blooming everywhere.
Colton
had hiked as far as the
Big Burl during our Thanksgiving
at the Gorge, but was willing to keep going past that point,
especially since it required a creek crossing just down the hill.
There was enough water that we had to step on rocks in the creek to
get across, and Wes offered to help Colton, who was wearing tennis
shoes. Colon scoffed at the idea and crossed with little trouble,
instinctively using his hiking pole when he started to wobble a
little.
In
addition to declaring rest stops and marking buried treasure, he
also decreed when it was time for our snack. Not long after that he
decided he had gone far enough. Wes had already planned to continue
on another mile or so, a practice we have been following on Ramblers
hikes for the last few months, making the hike length comfortable
for everyone.
As Wes
headed up the trail, Colton and I started back. It would be a
slightly longer return hike than going out, since Wes had driven
from our camp to the trailhead, saving us about two tenths of a mile
of road hiking. We went off the trail to explore a tree that had
fallen across
a fence, and generally took our time. As usual, Colton spent a
lot of time whacking brush and poking
trees and the ground with his hiking pole. At one point he
picked up several fallen blue oak branches and hung them back
on the tree. In fact, our progress was so leisurely that Wes
caught up with us a few hundred yards from the end of the trail, so
we were spared the extra walk and got a ride back to camp.
I had
brought pizza, enough for the expected 3 or 4 Ramblers, and Wes
provided a veggie tray, so when we got back to the motor home I
heated the pizza and we had a nice lunch. The weather was cloudy but
free from rain, and our only disappointment was that so many of our
fellow hikers could not be with us.
Not
long after Wes left, I took a short nap; then we decided to walk the
Nature Trail. This decision was apparently the signal for the rain
to arrive, since we were hit with wind and a cold mist in our faces
just as we got to the start of the trail, and thinking it could open
up and pour, we turned back. The rain soon stopped, so we decided to
have an early
campfire, and got it going around 4 p.m. We had a very few
drops hit us while we were by the fire, but not enough to really get
us wet, so we enjoyed the warmth of the fire for an hour or so, then
went inside for the night.
We ate
supper, watched a couple of Simpsons episodes, and read the
rain forest book again. Colton was in bed by 8:30 or so, while I
read a while before crawling into my own sleeping bag. Rain started
about this time, and every time I got up during the night, it was
still falling, never a hard downpour but a gentle shower most of the
night.
It was
clearing off by the time we got up, and the temperature got down to
39 degrees. I went outside to enjoy the fresh air. Two years ago we
had seen hundreds of millipedes on the road, parking lot, trails and
grass in the evening. Colton was not with us then, so I hoped for a
repeat, but we had to be satisfied with three of them. I spotted the
first when I walked across the parking lot, got my camera, and
took a photo. Colton woke up shortly after this and I asked if he
wanted to go out and see it. He declined at first, but once he was fully
awake he decided to go out, and spent a lot of time watching
it and taking some photos. When he came back in he announced
that they have little tiny legs, and I explained the meaning of the
name. When I picked up the leveling blocks to put them away, we
found two more of the creatures.
Breaking
from his normal pattern, Colton declined bacon, so I fixed some for
myself and he had Cheerios and toast again. I did the dishes, and we
slowly got things ready to go. Once everything was put away, we took
a final walk to the cattle guard. Actually I walked and Colton took
his bike. He can ride nearly all the way up to the road, but it gets
a little steep at the end. Of course, he greatly enjoys the ride
back down.
As we
drove home through Auberry, we saw that there was snow on the ridge
just above town, no more than 300 feet in elevation above where we
were. When we got home we unloaded the motor home, then went for
lunch at Colton's
Social House, his first visit and my second. He's known about
the place for some time and has been wanting to go, and now wants to
return with his parents and brother. I posted a positive review on
Yelp, and to top off a great time, the owner emailed me, told me the
place is named for his grandson, and offered to send me a Colton's
t-shirt for our Colton.
--Dick Estel, March 2018
San
Joaquin Gorge Photos
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Finegold
Exploration
The
Finegold Picnic area is a handy place, only 23 miles from my house,
by Millerton
Lake at the end of the Sky Harbor Road.
However, the hiking
choices are limited. You can go up the western end of the
San Joaquin River Trail and hike as far as you feel like. It goes to
the San Joaquin Gorge, 12 miles by trail. Or you can ...what? I
already knew part of the answer. The road ends in a big turn-around
circle, and from here to the west and north, what I call a
"fisherman's trail" goes down to the upper end of
a little
cove. I had gone that far after one of my hikes on the main trail,
so on March 6 I decided to see where it went beyond the part I could see.
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Lake
Millerton, blue and sparkling |
One
of many bush lupines in bloom |
Snowy
Sierra seen through an almond orchard |
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When
I arrived at about 11 a.m., there were close to 20
cars parked along the road, a fairly large number for a Tuesday.
From
the little cove's high water mark, the trail goes up the side of a ridge that
separates the cove from the main part of the lake. This is a very
short and not at all steep section, and where it levels off there is
a junction. You can go over a low saddle toward the main lake,
go east around the highest part of the ridge, or west to where the
ridge comes to an end between the cove and the lake, the direction I
took. At this point the route appears to be an old abandoned
road, and it's mostly very easy walking.
Along
the trail I saw lots of wildflowers in bloom - bush
lupines, fiddlenecks, popcorn flowers, poppies,
filaree, blue Dicks, and miner's lettuce. I also had good views of
the main lake at the western end of the ridge.
I
continued on around the north side and soon arrived back at the
saddle and trail junction. I decided to keep going along the north side of the
ridge, although the trail was much less distinct. I came to a couple
of spots that at first looked impassible due to pine trees fallen
across the trail, creating a brushy
barrier. I made it past both of
them, but beyond the second one the trail became almost invisible
and much more difficult. If I do this walk again I will skip this
section.
One
advantage of so many fallen trees was that there was always a log to
sit on and rest, and I went about 20 feet up the hill to sit on one
while I ate an apple. From here it was pretty much a cross-country
hike, as I traversed the slope back toward the parking lot. I had to
look ahead and try to find a route that did not take me into a
chaparral thicket or a quarter acre of fallen pines. Both of these
options were available, but I finally made it back to the edge of the
picnic area and back up to the road.
There
was a strong breeze when I first started out, but this stopped, and
by the time I got back to the car I had rolled up my sleeves and was
fully warmed up.
Sky
Harbor road starts from Millerton Road right next to the Table
Mountain Casino, and driving over the top of a hill south of the casino
last year we had
noticed a striking view of the Great Western Divide, a range of high
peaks in Sequoia National Park. On my way back home I managed to find a place to park,
and walked about a hundred feet over the top of the hill and got
some pretty good
photos.
Getting
back close to home, my route is south on Minnewawa Avenue
through almond and other orchards. The blossoms are dropping fast,
but they make a nice white carpet under the trees, and if you look
down between the right rows, you have some nice views of the snowy
Sierra Nevada.
Once
back in Clovis I rewarded myself with a visit to In-N-Out,
a very good and very inexpensive burger chain, and got home in
plenty of time for my afternoon nap.
--Dick Estel, March 2018
Finegold
Exploration Photos |
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Photos
(Click to enlarge; pictures open in new window) |
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Hensley
Camp Bear
Wallow Concrete
Flats
San Joaquin Gorge
Finegold
Exploration |
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Hensley Camp |
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Our camp
was next to a blue oak with golden leaves |
Hensley
Lake and part of the campground |
The new
grass is ready to take over from the old |
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A day in
the life of Colton and Jack |
Being
very cute |
Colton
was into alternate methods of sliding |
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Jack was
up to the challenge of any ladder... |
...and
was rewarded with an exciting ride down the spiral slide |
Uphill
or down, Colton has one speed |
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Jack on
top of the hill above our camp |
Exploring
what's in the grass |
The boys
were fascinated with the thick moss |
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A
personalized domino game |
Breakfast
time |
Watching
videos of falling dominoes |
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Bear
Wallow Camp |
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The
waters of Pine Flat Lake were amazingly still, reflecting the hills
above |
Pine
Flat from the high point on Trimmer Springs Road |
The
manzanita did not realize it was still winter |
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A home
away from home |
My camp
site |
Mossy
rocks and a leaning sycamore trunk |
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Drainage
near the trailhead |
The
Kings River near my camp |
Late
afternoon sun on the hills downstream |
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How cold
it was at 8:30 a.m. |
Frosty
ground |
Start of
the trail |
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The
trail goes up to the right from the center of this photo |
River
view from the trail |
Looking
across at the steep south slope |
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Camp
site on the south side of the river |
Blue
oaks and rocks form a gateway for the trail |
This
frog is the perfect color for his surroundings |
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Rocks
that have been under a lot of pressure |
A
reassuring sign |
My lunch
spot |
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The
probable location of the vista point |
A large
burl on a blue oak |
Dick on
the rock |
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Steep
terrain above the river |
Last
year's record rain produce a crop of tall wild oats |
The
reflection in the back window of my camper |
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White
bark of sycamore stands out against the green and brown
background |
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Concrete
Flats |
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First
fiddlenecks of the season |
Dead
brush and granite boulders |
Logs
across the Sycamore Fire Road |
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Cows at
the end of the trail |
Poison
oak leafing out |
Sycamore
Creek branch of Pine Flat Lake |
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This
barrier doesn't stop hikers |
My camp
by Big Creek |
Another
blue oak with a burl |
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The road
to Montgomery Brothers homestead |
Power
transmission line from the Helms Creek Pumped Storage Project at
Courtright Lake |
Along
Big Creek Road near the creek |
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Big
hanging boulder in the creek |
Potholes
by the creek |
Dick
stands near the edge of the cliff overlooking Big Creek |
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Dead
bull pine |
These
concrete piers at Concrete Flats were solid when we first saw them
in 1984 |
The
rutted driveway to Concrete Flats |
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One of
the falls on Big Creek |
Poppies
are out along the roads |
The
second "waterworks" up Big Creek Road |
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Culvert
and a mystery structure below the basin |
Rock
lined channel below the basin |
Fringed
redmaids were out in small numbers |
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San
Joaquin Gorge |
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Before
our hike up the hill, Colton had to climb through the gate a few
times |
A
favorite use of the hiking pole |
Colton
at the dry frog pond |
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Colton,
Teri and Dick |
Anything
that CAN be climbed WILL be climbed |
Blue
oaks and the picnic tables |
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A nice
moon |
This is
the only place Colton slows down |
Of
course, Dick never misses a chance to slow down (by Colton J.
Upshaw) |
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Wes goes
off-trail to get a good shot |
Bright
green buckeyes and the distant Sierra |
Buck
brush was in bloom everywhere |
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Bracing
to hold up the fence also holds up this fallen bull pine |
Colton
caught Dick peeking around the burl |
He is
literally hanging fallen branches back on the tree |
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Colton
takes a break to call Dad |
Looking
cute on the trail |
The
sun trying unsuccessfully to break through the clouds |
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A winding
section of the trail |
We kept a
close watch on the dark clouds |
Colton by
our daytime fire |
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Counting
the legs on a millipede |
And
taking its measure |
We hoped
for hundreds, but were happy with this shining specimen |
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Finegold
Exploration |
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Sign at
the end of the road |
It was a
good day for hiking - over 20 cars |
The
trail down from the parking area |
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The
trail runs along the side of this ridge |
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Dead oak
beside the trail |
The part
of the trail was once a road |
The
little cove |
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Dick
beside the trail |
I was
not sure I could get past this brushy barrier |
But
there was no need to duck here |
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Fiddlenecks
were thick everywhere |
A rugged
old bull pine |
The view
looking up |
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The
Great Western Divide from Millerton Road south of Table Mountain
Casino |
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Related Links |
|
Hensley
Lake |
You
Tube videos of dominoes falling |
More
Hensley Camping and Hiking |
Kings
River Special Management Area |
Bear
Wallow Camp |
Pine
Flat Lake |
Big
Creek Area Place Names |
Camping
at Concrete Flats in 1984 |
Johnny's
first campout |
San
Joaquin River Trail |
San
Joaquin River Gorge Special Recreation Management Area |
All
my reports on hiking and camping at San Joaquin Gorge (Squaw Leap) |
Millerton
Lake |
Fiddleneck
Flowers |
Sky
Harbor Hiking |
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