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Dick's
Adventures of 2018 - Part 6 |
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Related Links
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Travel Reports |
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Adventures
of 2016 Adventures
of 2017 2018
Part 1 2018
Part 2 2018
Part 3 2018
Part 4 2018
Part 5
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Thanksgiving at Nelder
Nelder Basin Hike &
Fish Camp Area Hikes
The Great Tarantula Hunt
Searching for Sunshine
San Joaquin River Trail West
San Joaquin Gorge Bridge & Ridge
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Thanksgiving
at Nelder Grove
We've
been trying to have our family Thanksgiving at Nelder Grove Historic
Area for three years. In 2016 it was too cold and wet, and in 2017
the area was closed due to a recent forest
fire. Finally in 2018
everything came together, and we did a combo camping
trip/Thanksgiving celebration November 9 - 11. Daughter Teri
drove up on Friday in her motor home with grandson Jack, while I picked up his
brother Colton from school around noon and followed in my pickup. The
four of us would camp that night, and the others would drive up the
next day. Then Teri and I would spend one more night. The
last half mile into Nelder Grove Campground is far too rough for a
motor home, so our camp was an unofficial site about a mile away
that has been used by many campers in the past. It's at the junction
of roads that come in from the south and west (Roads 6S47Y and
6S90), and at the border of the official historic area. There is a
nearly flat spot for a motor home, and room to park several other
vehicles. The only campfire ring is about 100 feet from the parking
spot, down a rough track. I was able to drive down there to unload
wood and jugs of water for fire control. |
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Jack and
Teri at the Nelder Grove sign |
Checking
out a cedar tree |
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After
a light lunch we got in my truck and drove into the Nelder Grove
Campground, for a hike along the east side of California Creek. This
is not an official trail, but it's a well-used path that follows the
creek past a series of cascades and small waterfalls, and eventually
meets the road that goes from our camp spot past the campground
turn-off and comes back to the Sky Ranch Road.
The
boys had a good time climbing over a gate, which is designed to keep
out vehicles, and has plenty of room to walk around. The also
enjoyed jumping over
logs, whacking
bushes, and watching out for the "Canyon Monster," which
they suggested lived down in the creek where it drops down well
below the trail. (The real monster is a miss-step that could send
the careless hiker off the narrow trail and down the steep bank.)
We
went till we could see we were almost to the road, then turned back
and went into the campground, where there are two apple trees. They
were planted in the 1930s when there was a church camp at this
location, and are still producing. The boys climbed into the tree,
and we brought back a half dozen, mostly very small, but sweet and
tasty.
By
the time we finished our hike and got back to camp it was cooling
off quickly. We went in the motor home and discussed whether to
start a fire. Jack had spent the night at Teri's and they woke up at
4:30, so she wanted to get to bed early - but not at 4 p.m.
Meanwhile, it was obvious the boys still had much more energy than
could be tolerated in the small confines the motor home, and we
headed to the fire ring and soon had a nice fire going.
I
had picked up pizza on the way to camp and we enjoyed our supper
next to the fire, followed by stories, running around, and just
enjoying our surroundings. When it got close to bedtime, we went
into the motor home for ice cream, and Teri got things set up for
sleeping (I would sleep in the back of my truck). It was too early
for me to go to bed and I wanted to read for a while. I returned to
the fire, which had burned down to a few coals. We were using
pitch-covered sugar pine cones for kindling, and three of those on
the coals soon got the fire going good again. When I left the motor
home it was 7:30 p.m. and 33 degrees.
I
am prepared for cold weather camping, and was comfortable in my
sleeping bag, with thermal underwear and a hooded sweat shirt. It
was 31 degrees when I went to bed at 9 and I checked the thermometer
each time I got up to use the bathroom. It was 28 degrees at 3 a.m., and a low of 27 at 6:30 a.m. when I got up. By
9 a.m. it got up to 35. We had hot tea inside but ate our breakfast
at the card table outside, with the sun finally hitting our camp.
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Gates are
for climbing |
So are
logs |
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In the 80
year old apple tree |
A benefit
of cold weather - brilliant red dogwood leaves |
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We
were hoping that Johnny and Brittany would arrive by 10 a.m., giving
us time for a short jaunt to the campground before the others
arrived around noon, but first we walked down the
road, thinking we
might meet the boys' parents coming in. This was not to be, but we
had a nice walk of about a half mile each way. The unique event on
this hike was Jack's decision to gather up small rocks and put them
down the back of his shirt, allowing them to fall out (he said he
was "pooping rocks"). Back
at camp, the boys passed the time with toys they had brought, and a
major Play-Doh project. Teri had bought a machine that presses the
dough through various attachments, creating "spaghetti" and
other concoctions. They also both climbed the ladder on Teri's motor
home, with Jack going high enough to see the top of the unit for the
first time. Colton had been on top on another trip to rescue an
errant Stomp Rocket, so it was a repeat climb for him.
Jack
had decided he wanted pumpkin pie immediately, although he'd never
tasted it before. Finally Teri put a small piece in a dish, and he
got some on his finger. I was afraid after all the fuss he had made
that he might not like it, but I was wrong and he enjoyed the rest
of the piece.
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Only Jack
would drop rocks down the back of his own shirt |
Construction
project |
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Jack
reaches new heights |
Colton
attempts to give his parents a heart attack |
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I
also gave Colton a a job. There was an old, rusted shovel blade near
the campfire ring, and I asked him to scrape away the pine needles
and other flammable material around the fire ring. He tackled this
task with enthusiasm, and did an excellent job.
Daughter
Jennifer arrived around 10:30, and Jackie, the girls mother, and Teri's son
Mikie drove in before noon. Johnny and Brittany were
the last to arrive, bringing the total to nine. Jennifer's husband
Rod had to work, and Teri's husband Tim was helping his mother.
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Jennifer
and her fairly new Jeep |
Clearing
a safety zone around the fire ring |
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We
got everyone together for a group photo, and managed to catch all
nine of us looking good. The Upshaw's wanted to take a family photo
for their Christmas card, so they drove to the campground, followed
by Mikie and me in my truck. We made the short walk from the
Interpretive Center to the Big Ed Tree, and Johnny, Brittany, Colton
and Jack posed for about 20 pictures. For some reason, four and six
year old boys are not good at this sort of thing, so many of the
pictures had three people looking good, and one being goofy or
admonishing someone for being goofy. We also took photos by a big
stump and by some small fir trees, and ended up with about four good
possibilities.
We
also took time to explore the Interpretive Center, where there are
replicas of the flume and other items used in logging days. These
and the nearby stumps proved to be a good play
area.
When
we returned to camp, it was time for dinner. The food was served
next to the motor home, but we carried our plates to the fire ring
and enjoyed a nice camp fire while we dined on chile relleno casserole
and tamales.. Of course, Jack got his second helping of pumpkin pie,
and everyone else chose from that or blueberry.
Not
long after dinner Jennifer, Jackie and Mikie left. Knowing the boys
would fall asleep in the car, Johnny and Brittany wanted to wait so
they would arrive home close to bedtime and the boys could go right
to bed. Experience had taught them that if they got a long nap too
early in the day, they would not go to sleep at their normal
bedtime.
We
kept the fire going as the temperature dropped, but eventually the
Upshaw's said their goodbyes and started down the mountain, leaving
Teri and me to enjoy one final night of camping. I stayed up till
about nine, then put a bucket of water on the fire, since there was
a breeze and we had seen some sparks pop out earlier. With the kids
gone, there was room for me to sleep in the motor home, where it was
about 20 degrees warmer than the outside. The low that final morning
was 26 degrees. |
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The whole
gang: Teri Liddle, Mike Liddle, Jackie Taggart, Brittany, Jack,
Johnny and Colton Upshaw, Jennifer Neely, Dick Estel |
Merry
Christmas from the Upshaw's: Jack, Brittany, Johnny, Colton |
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Fun on
the flume |
Watching
Colton climb |
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The
next morning Teri and I started the day with tea as usual, inside
the motor home. With the temperature warming up, We ate breakfast
outside. We had decided to do a short walk from the campground, but
we first got nearly everything ready for our departure. We drove to
the campground in my truck, and hiked the Bull Buck Loop trail,
starting with the section that is a half mile to the tree. This is a
delightful walk through pine, fir and cedar, with plenty of dogwood
showing fall color, and ending dramatically as the Bull Buck appears
through the trees.
Although
I have visited this tree many times, it always impresses me. It's
not the largest tree in the grove, but it is one of the most
perfectly shaped. It has a bigger than usual flare at the bottom,
giving it the largest circumference at ground level of any tree
there (100 feet). It is also not the tallest, but the hundred yard
path where small trees and bushes were cleared by the forest service
gives visitors the best top to bottom view of any tree in the grove.
Over the years I have photographed my daughters, grandsons and great
grandsons next to the tree, and I never get tired of seeing it.
After
some time with the Bull Buck, Teri and I walked a few hundred feet
up the Chimney Tree Trail for a look at the Old Forester, at 299
feet the tallest tree at Nelder Grove. Like many ancient giants it
has a dead top. Although the view is partly obscured by smaller
trees, you can get a fairly good look at its entire height, and a
nice view of the top along the final stretch of the Bull Buck Loop
heading back to the campground. |
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Extra-large
dogwood leaf - about six inches long |
One more
photo of the Bull Buck Tree |
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We
reluctantly took our leave of the grove and returned to camp, where
we finished loading up and got underway back to the valley. Although
it took three years before we were finally able to enjoy our
Thanksgiving here, it was worth the wait, and hopefully we can
continue this tradition, with the missing family members joining us
next year.
--Dick
Estel, November 2018
More
Nelder Photos |
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Nelder
Basin and Fish Camp Area Hikes
Just
before Thanksgiving I had a cat-sitting assignment at the home of my
daughter and son-in-law above Oakhurst, while they went to Tahoe. I
spent the night with Jennifer and Rod on Saturday November 17, and
got up in time to tell them goodbye as they left at 7 a.m.
The
duties of this job are fairly simple - make sure there is food and
water, empty the litter box, let the cats in and out, and remove any
"gifts" of dead rodents or birds. I consider the rest of
the time as an opportunity to go hiking in the nearby mountains. For
example, it's only 15 miles to one of my favorite places, Nelder
Grove, instead of the 60 mile drive from home.
I
walked around the property and along the nearby roads Sunday
morning, but saved my major hikes for the following two days. The
first hike would be to an area of Nelder Grove that used to be easily accessible. When I
first started visiting Nelder, a road went up in a generally western
direction from the campground, leveled off about two miles up at the
top of Nelder Ridge, and continued
around the mountain to one of the more fascinating areas in the
grove. Three large dead sequoia
snags, a half dozen big
stumps, a few large living trees, and a venerable monster
tree known as the Old
Granddad marked the location of the Graveyard of the
Giants.
About
a mile up from the campground the road crossed Nelder Creek. A rough but drivable track
led in a few hundred yards to an area of large trees, which I called
Redwood Glen, but which I later learned is properly known as Nelder
Basin. The road has been closed for decades and is now the Graveyard
of the Giants Trail. The little side road into the Basin has been
choked
with brush for years. Jennifer and I tried to walk in there about
six or eight
years ago and had to give up. However, I knew that it was possible
to get there if you didn't mind a bit of bush whacking. In addition,
I had step by step directions to the Nelder Tree, the grove's
largest, from Brenda
Negley's book on
the area. It was near this tree that former gold miner John
Nelder built a cabin in the 1800s, and it was at that location that
he was visited by John
Muir.
I
started up the trail about 9:45 on Monday the 19th, only to realize
that most of the forest on both sides had been pretty much destroyed
by the Railroad Fire of 2017. Blackened dead snags lined the trail
starting a few hundred yards in, and continuing to the top where the
road levels out. At the creek crossing there were several giant
sequoias just downstream from the trail as well as one up the hill a
short distance that had been turned black most of the way up their
trunks, and the foliage was brown and dying. The prognosis is that
these trees will not recover. |
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Damage
from the Railroad Fire gives new meaning to "Graveyard of the
Giants" trail
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Brown
foliage does not portend a good future for this big sequoia |
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At
the creek I turned right, following a rough path and then what is
left of the old road. The going was much easier than I expected,
presumably because the fire cleared out the small trees and brush
that blocked the way previously. Brenda's directions told me to turn
right before reaching the meadow, but the meadow looks nothing like
it did 30 years ago, and I was stepping in swampy ground before I
realized I was there. I managed to make my way across to higher
ground, where the going was again easier than expected. I had to
look out for branches and pine cones on the ground and detour around
a few logs, but I was able to walk up into the area along the creek
and see six giant sequoias within about a hundred yard radius. I do
not believe I found the Nelder Tree, but I was perfectly happy with
the "big six."
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The entrance into Nelder Basin |
This sugar pine cone apparently drove its stem
into the ground when it fell |
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Two
of Nelder Basin's fine sequoias |
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Most
of these trees were blackened at the bottom, but there was no damage
to the foliage. I think these burn scars may be from a small fire in
the early 2000's, caused by a careless camper.
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Most of
the sequoias in Nelder Basin have blackened bark at the base |
However,
the foliage remains green and healthy |
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Some
of the trees were on the other
side of the creek, which runs through a deep gorge
at this point, but I was able to get up close to those in
my side. I also saw a long-dead tree that had fallen
because it grew close to the creek, which eventually undermined the
roots.
After
exploring the area thoroughly, I found a fallen cedar that was the
right size for sitting, although most of its surface was also
blackened from fire. I ate part of my peanut butter sandwich here,
then walked down the slope and found an easy place to cross back
over to the old road. My excursion into Nelder Basin was short in
distance, about a half-mile total from the trail and back, but
consumed nearly two hours. This
map shows the area around Nelder Grove and the location of
Nelder Basin. |
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A common
sight - giant sequoia undermined by an adjacent stream |
I looked
for an unburned log to sit on, but had to make do with this one |
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When planning this hike I had decided if I
could not get into Nelder Basin, I would continue up the trail, at
least as far as the big sequoia right by the trail about 200 yards past the
creek. Then I would continue on as long a I felt up to it.
This
first tree had suffered the most damage of any that I saw. There was
virtually no foliage, green or brown, and the trunk was black from
top to bottom. Although the burn did not go deep into the bark, with
no green foliage, there is no photosynthesis, and death is the only
probably outcome.
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This tree
by the trail near Nelder Creek is burned from bottom to top |
Someone
investigated how deep the burn goes |
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After
this I began a series of self-challenges in which I decided to see what
was around the next bend, then continued to repeat that quest time
after time. I knew if I continued on to the top of Nelder Ridge,
where the trail levels off, I would have a total hike of close to
five miles, which is about 25% more than what I consider my limit.
However, each time I was tempted to turn back at the "next
bend," I told myself, "I've come this far, and I may never
get up here again, so I should stick with it to the top."
Along
the way I tried to spot a sequoia I had named the Canyon Tree. This
was a good-looking specimen with an unbroken live top that was about
100 feet up a drainage, clearly visible from the road back in the
day. I had been unsuccessful in finding this tree when I hiked up to
the Graveyard with Rod and Jennifer in
2008, and I did not see it on the way up this time.
Despite
the temptation to turn back, I kept going until I reached the level
point. On the uphill side of the road here, we camped in the late
1960s after driving up in in our VW Bug. Across the road to the west
and down hill a
short ways there was a big sequoia, not one of the real giants, but
a very attractive tree with lots of foliage. Thankfully I took a
photo back then, since I could barely see a small section of the
tree's trunk on this trip.
I
found a good log for resting and enjoyed being at a spot that I went
through regularly in the 20th century, but only twice in this one.
When I started back down, I kept an eye out for the Canyon Tree, and
was able to spot the top from the trail. I went off the trail and up
close to it, then had an easy walk back down the drainage to the
trail. Once I knew where to look, I realized I could see it from the
trail, and could get a good look with just a short walk up the
drainage.
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The
elusive Canyon Tree |
It's
actually quite visible if your know where and when to look |
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During
my walk through the burned over areas, I was glad to see that the
smaller bushes and trees were already making a comeback. All the
branches of small manzanita, black oaks, and dogwood
appeared to be dead, but new shoots had grown during the spring and
summer of this year, and the latter two species had the usual fall
color.
There
were also a few wildflowers, mostly those that bloom in the spring,
apparently confused by the changes in our weather. This has been a
frequent observation the last few years. |
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The
original bush is dead, but this manzanita put out new shoots from
the roots |
This
little black oak is also making a comeback |
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I
made it back down to the truck, tired but not as much as I had
expected. When I checked the cell phone app I use to record hiking
distance, I found that I had walked a total of 4.85 miles. The total
time from start to finish was five hours and 35 minutes, with three
and a half hours of moving time. This was by far the most ambitious
hike I have completed since I walked nearly five miles at the San
Joaquin Gorge about two
years ago. I sat by the truck and ate the last part of my
sandwich, then started for my temporary home.
I
had thought about driving into Oakhurst for dinner, but I decided i
would just fix something at the house and rest up for the next day's
adventures.
--Dick
Estel, December 2018
More
photos from Nelder Basin Hike |
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Fish
Camp Hikes
When
I am cat sitting, I invite my friend Wes Thiessen to join me for one
of my hikes. In
July we went to Sentinel Dome and the Mariposa Grove of giant
sequoias in Yosemite. This time I had promised to show him two hiking
areas that he was not familiar with. In fact, I had just discovered
them myself in
June of this year. Both hikes are fairly short, and start on
dirt roads that leave Highway 41 near Fish Camp. Although both the
roads can be navigated by a passenger car, I had brought my truck
for greater comfort while bouncing along mountain roads. Wes
arrived a little after 9, and we drove out Road 620 to the highway,
for the twelve mile drive to Fish Camp, where we turned east on
Jackson-Big Sandy Road. A few miles in, a water diversion ditch
crosses the road, and there is a trail along the ditch on the north
side. The water comes from Big Creek, which eventually crosses the
highway at Fish Camp and flows into the South Fork of the Merced
River. We were not able to find any information about when or why
the ditch was constructed, or where the water goes. When
I was there in June the ditch had a good flow of water, but this
time it was dry for the first two thirds of the way. Of course, this
inspired Wes to go down and walk in the ditch a ways, seeking the
best photo opportunities. |
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Even
without water, the ditch is still a place of beauty |
After all
those times on the rock, Wes finally descends into the ditch |
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This
is a short, easy trail, about a mile and a quarter round-trip. At
this season it's lined with fall color in some places. Since it
parallels a man-made waterway, it's fairly level, although the path
is narrow in a couple of spots. At one point, where water oozed out
of the bank across from us, we saw a delightful display of icicles. |
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Black oak
leaves provide color and cover the ground in places |
In a spot
that stays shaded all day, icicles will last till warmer
weather |
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The
trail ends where the ditch meets the
creek, which drops over a nice waterfall at this point. There's
a small diversion dam across the creek, and a water gate to control
the flow into the ditch. Wes crossed the dam and observed that there
is no real trail beyond that point, although people were crossing
and making their way upstream "cross country" in June. There
was water in the ditch along the upper third or so, and a winter
wonderland display of ice on the rock along the upper bank of the
creek, and in
the ditch itself.. |
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The
waterfall on Big Creek |
Wes on
the dam |
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Dick
relaxes by the water gate |
A thin
layer of ice covers the rock slope above the creek |
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We
returned to my truck, drove back to the highway and through the tiny
village of Fish
Camp. About a mile past the town, just at the Yosemite Park
border, Mt. Raymond Road goes to the east. A few miles in there is a
road junction and an ancient sign reading "Buffin Meadow Loop
Trail." In June I could not find any evidence of a trail at
this location, and we had no better luck in November. As
I had done on my earlier trip, we parked and walked down the road a
short distance, then took a narrow, brush-lined track a short
distance to Buffin Meadow. The green grass and flowers of spring
were long gone, but dry weather provided a bonus discovery. I had
not been able to cross the meadow due to swampy ground, but we had
no such problem this time. On the other side of the meadow, we came
to a trail, narrow and not heavily traveled, but easy enough to
follow. We only went a short distance before turning back, but we
decided we might well have seen a segment of the elusive Buffin
Meadow Loop Trail. The
fall season also provided colorful black oak leaves, and a
ground-level plant with brilliant red leaves that I think were wild
strawberries. |
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Ancient
stumps are scattered through Buffin Meadow |
Wes
captured a true work of art with this shot |
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I'm
going to let Wes have most of the final words in this report: In this season of thanksgiving, I want to shout out a big "thank you" to Dick Estel for introducing me to several of his favorite hikes around Fish Camp near the entrance to Yosemite National Park. His daughter, Jennifer, has been on holiday with her husband
Rod, enlisting Dick to provide care for their four cats in the Oakhurst area. I joined him
on November 20 to hike two interesting trails. The Big Creek trail head is located several miles
east of the Tenaya Lodge off Highway 41. We followed a dry canal for about a
half mile to a waterfall on Big Creek. The colors of fall were still quite vivid along the trail. This high altitude hike was quite cold with ice and frost evident on the rock formations near the water. Dick stuck to the trail while I jumped into the dry
ditch bed from time to time to capture some interesting photo images. Later we traveled closer to the park entrance to hike a short distance to a fascinating meadow. Although the meadow was dry and devoid of green grass, I was able to capture
fall colors on vines at ground level. We finished our hikes with a Thanksgiving lunch
south of the border at El
Cid in Oakhurst, using the gift certificate Dick received as
payment for cat duty. Returning to Rod and Jennifer's house, Dick pulled out pumpkin pie for us to enjoy "al fresco" on the patio watching the sun set to the
west. As I drove home, I noticed a cloud formation to the west creating a colorful sunset. Of course I had to pull to the side of the road to capture those colors. |
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Black
oaks provide a great color display at the 5,000 foot elevation |
Sunset
view from Highway 41 south of Oakhurst |
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After
Wes's departure, I was also inspired by the sunset, and captured a
few more photos from
the patio. After this there was nothing left to do but to start
a fire in the wood stove and enjoy the antics of the two younger
cats, while reading, relaxing and watching TV.
--Dick
Estel, December 2018
More
Fish Camp Trail Photos |
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The
Great Tarantula Hunt
When my younger
grandson Mike was a child, he was a big fan of reptiles, amphibians
and arachnids, and at various times had some of each in captivity.
For several years we would go out in the fall and hunt for
tarantulas. We were almost always successful, and the unlucky one
found himself living in an aquarium for the next few months.
The best hunting time was mid-November, so I
wanted to take great grandsons Colton and Jack on a tarantula hunt,
with plans to observe and photograph only, and leave any we found to
continue their quest
for love and food. We were finally able to schedule this outing
for November 30, with daughter Teri and grandson Johnny joining us.
I
believe it was Theodore Roosevelt who said, "You can hunt for
any animal, any time, anywhere. Finding is a different matter." I
already realized we were probably too late, but we could still
enjoy a trip into the foothills, to one of the best tarantula spots,
the area around Hensley
Lake in Madera County. We took an indirect
route, following county roads off State Highway 41, and stopping first at an
old corral I discovered on a hiking trip
to Hensley in
2016. On the map this area is vaguely referred to as Bates
Station, and Road 406 is also known as Bates Station Road. The only
thing the Internet has to say about Bates Station is that it is
"a cultural feature (locale) in Madera County." So maybe
the corral was part of Bates Station and maybe not. What is certain
is that we were indeed too late for tarantulas.
The
lack of tarantulas was forgotten as the boys had a great time
climbing over a metal gate, and up on the old cattle chute. We
didn't go too deeply into this artifact, since it offers endless
ways to injure yourself. Inside there was a wooden wall with brands
burned into the boards.
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There's
no age limit for kids to climb the gate |
We've
just got to see what's over there! |
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Across
the road there was a big rock
outcropping. The land was fenced, but
the fence stopped on both sides of the rock, since it was steep
enough to keep cattle from passing. However, it was nothing for the
Upshaw boys and their grandma Teri, who made their way up through
the dead grass and began climbing to the top. Johnny and I joined
them, and we spent another 15 minutes exploring this area. Colton
tried to lift a small boulder that outweighed him, and he and Jack
kept the rest of us busy watching them and wanting to cover our eyes as
they jumped from rock to rock.
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Climbing
the big granite outcropping |
Colton
vs. the giant boulder |
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Finally
we got back in Johnny's 4-Runner, managed a U-turn on the narrow
dirt road, and headed toward Hensley. You can read the details of
our route in the report
from 2016, but it led us through tree-covered foothills, down to
open farm land, and back up to the Fresno River, Buchanan Dam, and
the start of the Pohonichi Trail north of the reservoir.
Our
disappointment at the lack of big, hairy spiders was greatly reduced
by the experience of finding a baby rattlesnake right next to the
vehicle when we got out. There was some debate as to whether it was
really a rattler, since it was too small to have rattles, and we
could not get a good luck at the tail to look for the tell-tale
button. However, the head was the right shape, and when Johnny
attempted to move it to a safer spot off the pavement and into the
grass with a hiking pole, it repeatedly coiled and struck at the
pole. It ignored our explanation that we were trying to save it from
the danger of being run over.
With
our rescue mission accomplished, we started out on the trail. This
is an excellent place to exercise various muscle groups. The trail
is short, only a one mile loop, but it goes up and down at least
five times. |
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This guy
welcomed us to the Hensley trailhead |
Starting
up the Pohonichi Trail |
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The
terrain is what is known as oak
savannah, with blue oak and occasional shrubs scattered
all over the hills. Ground squirrels were
common, there were some hawks overhead, and we had views of the lake
in several spots. The boys got additional exercise, running up and
down the trail ahead of us, and had way too much fun. |
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Jack and
Colton at one of several benches along the trail |
Dick and
great grandsons on a hilltop |
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We
made it around the loop to the last hilltop, where we could see the
car and the lake. Despite instructions the boys ran down the trail
and waited more or less patiently as we adults made our way down
more cautiously. Our scaly friend was nowhere to be seen, probably
having realized that a parking lot was not the best locale for him.
We made the return journey on the paved roads leading to Highway 145
then out to Highway 41, and back home having enjoyed a great outing
on a cool sunny day.
--Dick
Estel, December 2018
More
Hensley Photos |
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Searching
for Sunshine
We
had a good rainstorm near the end of November, followed by a few
days with showers. In the San Joaquin Valley, the natural
consequence of this is often several days of fog. It's usually not
on the ground, but it's cold and gloomy night and day, and soon the
need for sunshine kicks in. We can usually drive up into the hills,
reach the level of the fog, and drive through it into sunshine.
After
nearly a week, I had had more than enough of dark days, so on
December 11, I decided to drive up into the foothills and do a
little hiking. I went up Highway 168 which leads to Shaver and
Huntington Lakes, at 5,000 and 7,000 feet in elevation. I did not
want to go that far, so I decided to stop and hike where a road
leads off the highway to the Buckeye
Helipad, just below the 4,000 feet level.
As
it turned out, this was also the elevation of the fog bank, so I
ended up hiking in thin fog with occasional glimpses of the sun as
it tried to break
through. It was quite comfortable despite the 37 degree
temperature. It was only about 200 yards to the landing
zone, but beyond this, a rough dirt track went up hill to the
southwest. My route led through a large grove of black oak trees,
with most of their leaves on the ground, but a bit of fall color
still on some of them.
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A grove
of black oaks on the hill above the landing pad |
Just
enough leaves left on this tree to add a bit of color |
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Bear
clover surrounded by oak leaves |
The fat
acorns of the black oak |
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The
road was fairly steep for a ways, leveled off, then went up a little
higher to a hilltop, just above 4,000 feet. While the oaks
dominated, at the top I saw some cedar trees, ponderosa and bull
pine, manzanita, chaparral,
and bay leaf. I went down the road a short distance on the far side
of the hill, but it was quite steep and every step down would be a
step back up, so I didn't go far. As I returned to the car, the fog
was breaking up and I finally had sunshine and blue skies.
I
drove up the highway a short distance to the end of the 4-lane
section, where there is a vista point. All summer the mountains that
should be visible from here had been blocked by haze and smoke, but
on this day I had a spectacular view of the snow-covered peaks in
the Kings Canyon National Park back country. |
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Where the
road goes down the hill beyond the landing pad |
Manzanita
and bay leaf |
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Color
contrast is provided by dried stems that once held chaparral berries |
The
mountains of Kings Canyon National Park |
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At
this location Tollhouse Road, the old route of Highway 168, joins
the highway. I considered going home that way for a change of
scenery, then I noticed the sign for Alder Springs, which is on the
upper stretch of Auberry Road. This route goes over a ridge and down
to the town of Auberry, and I remembered having some good mountain
views when I drove it in
2015. In less than a half mile I pulled off the road and was
treated to an even more spectacular view of snow-covered peaks.
Because my daughter inspects power lines for tree growth that might
create a hazard, I was intrigued by the wide path that had been cut
through the forest for a major transmission line that crossed the
road and went over the ridge at this point.
A
short distance farther I had an even wider
view of the high Sierra peaks. I was later able to determine
that the high peak in the middle of my photo below is Banner
Peak, part of the Ritter
Range, in the Ansel
Adams Wilderness. The mountain to the right is almost certainly
Mt. Ritter. |
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A path
through the forest keeps this transmission line safe |
The
Ritter Range - Banner Peak in the middle, then Mt. Ritter, with the
Fuller Buttes in the center just below the snow line |
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Beyond
this area, the road descended continuously, taking me back under the
cloud layer. From Auberry it was a familiar route out to Highway
168, through Prather, and back on Auberry Road for the journey down
to the valley.
--Dick
Estel, December 2018
More
photos from Buckeye Helipad and Sierra Vistas |
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San
Joaquin River Trail West
I've
been hiking this
trail since 2012, and you can find my previous reports here,
so I won't go into details that I've already covered several times.
I was feeling the need to get out on the trail somewhere, so on
December 20 I slept late, had a good breakfast, and left home about
10 a.m. No need to rush on a cold winter day!. I started up the
trail about 10:30, wondering if I was dressed warmly enough, but
about two thirds of the way up I had to take off my outer layer, and
I was comfortable with just a long-sleeve t-shirt the rest of the
hike.
This
trail is steep and very rocky in places, and I think there are more
washed out places since my first visit, although I saw that some
maintenance had been done recently. This mostly consisted of filling
in some of the ruts and creating little dirt dikes to channel water
off the trail. |
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A rocky
section of the trail |
A
drainage channel has been constructed to carry water off the trail |
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We've
had some rainstorms, and the new green grass is getting a good
start. The blue oaks are changing color, but have most of their
leaves. Millerton Lake, visible most of the way along the trail, has
a fair amount of water, but obviously has room for what the winter
may bring in the way of rain and melted snow. In fact, the lake was
at 57%
of capacity the day I was there. There were no flowers, but some
colorful mushrooms appeared in a damp, shady spot. |
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The trail
winds up hill constantly |
Back-lit
blue oak leaves make a nice holiday decoration |
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The lake
level appears close to the top, but the 213 million square foot
surface of the lake means there's room for as much additional water
is it now holds
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These
delicate half-inch mushrooms offer some color contrast to the
surrounding brown and green |
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As
you get near the place where the trail goes over a saddle, there is
a nice view of some of the snow-covered peaks. The saddle marks the
one-mile spot, and is the place where I turned back on my first
visit here. Since then I have gone maybe another half mile or so
father several times, as well as up on a knoll to the west of the
saddle. In February
of 2016 I hiked with my daughters and a friend to the top of Pincushion
Peak, higher up from the knoll, but that was one of the hardest
hikes I've done in recent years, and I don't plan to repeat it.
On
this day I went up in that direction about a hundred yards, then
followed a cow trail that went down to them main trail about 500
feet beyond the saddle, adding just a little extra distance to my
total hike. During my hike I saw perhaps a dozen other hikers, some
heading for Pincushion, and some just enjoying the view from the
hill east of the saddle. |
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Peaks of
the high Sierra store snow for future irrigation use |
Hikers on
the ridge east of the saddle |
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I
enjoyed a snack and a rest at the saddle, then began the descent
back to my car, and back to Clovis for a late lunch at the Colorado
Grill.
--Dick
Estel, December 2018
More
San Joaquin Trail Photos |
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San
Joaquin Gorge Bridge and Ridge Trails
I
have hiked at this location more
times than I can count, so there's not much new to say. For the
most part, I'll just let my photos put in their thousand words.
Daughter
Teri and I went to the San
Joaquin Gorge on December 28, getting on the trail about 10 a.m.
in 44-degree weather. It was mostly sunny with no wind, and it was
very pleasant hiking, with enough exercise to warm us up nicely,
especially on the mostly uphill return hike.
The
theme of the day was blue oaks - some nearly bare, some with most of
their leaves, foliage golden brown in color, and often lit
dramatically by the low winter sun. |
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I always
have to photograph this 5-trunk blue oak |
Fall
color and the low sun combine to produce dramatic views |
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Twisted
branches of one blue oak frame another |
Squaw
Leap table top, with blue oaks below; clouds and sky above |
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We
hiked down the Bridge Trail, then up to a nearby trail junction. If
you go left, the trail goes up into the hills on the north side of
the river, then branches off on a route that leads to Millerton
Lake. A right turn takes you onto the Ridge Trail, which winds up
the side of a ridge and eventually joins the other trail. The full
loop is around eight miles, and I hiked it once around 40 years ago,
but now I just go a half mile or so.
Teri
had never been on the Ridge Trail, and she was duly impressed with
the 5-trunk blue oak that is one of my favorite landmarks on this
path. We continued on to where the trail winds around to cross above
a steep,
rocky drainage, and enjoyed our snack on a big granite rock
above the trail.
There
were a dozen cars at the parking lot, and we met or were passed by
at least 20 other
hikers and bicyclists during our nearly three-mile walk. All in
all, it was pretty much a perfect day for an outstanding hike. |
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Hikers
take advantage of the low water flow to explore the river |
Another
example of nature's perfect landscaping ability |
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--Dick
Estel, December 2018
More
San Joaquin Gorge Photos |
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