Shaver Crossing Station

Dick's Big Creek & Shaver Crossing Trip

   
Photos          Related Links          More Travel Reports
   

In early 2013 I joined the Westerners, a group of people interested in western history. We meet once a month for dinner, which is followed by a speaker discussing some aspect of the west. In April the speaker was Darinda Otto, who told about the San Joaquin & Eastern Railroad.

This railway was built in 1912 from northeast of Clovis CA to where Huntington Lake is now, in order to carry materials for Southern California Edison's (SCE) Big Creek Hydroelectric Project. It also carried lumber down the mountain. In the 1940s, the speaker’s grandparents obtained a 99-year lease on the Shaver Crossing station, near Big Creek. She has occupied it since they passed away, even though the lease officially expired at their deaths. The station serves as a museum and is open to the public by appointment, so I went there on June 8. In addition to visiting the railroad museum, I wanted to make this a photographic expedition, so I stopped anywhere and everywhere to get pictures, many of which are shown below.

There are several routes up from the San Joaquin Valley to that area, the best known of which is Highway 168, which goes through Clovis in the valley, through the small crossroads town of Prather, close to the old logging town of Auberry, and up to the 5,000 foot level at Shaver Lake, another SCE lake. Just past the lake Old Huntington Road (the route to Big Creek) leaves the highway, and about three miles from there the paved road is crossed by the old railroad grade, which is now a forest service dirt road. The station is about an eighth of a mile off the pavement on this road.

Since I go up Highway 168 when I camp in that area with my motor home, I decided to take one of the alternate routes, the Tollhouse Grade, which is the old highway route. This road leaves Highway 168 about 15 miles from Clovis, and the first landmark is Humphrey Station. J. Humphrey built the toll road and established the pay station that gives the road and nearby town its name. It's a few more miles up the road to the small village of Tollhouse. The road is narrow and winding, and it's a bit disconcerting to realize that when it was the main route, people went up it with logging trucks, travel trailers, boat trailers and other vehicles large and small. Of course, this is true of many miles of mountain roads. In fact, it was the difficulty of hauling materials up this route that made it necessary to build the railroad.

Darinda had just come home from a week in the hospital, and I was her first visitor of the season, so she had not had time to straighten up (when your house is a museum it's sometimes hard to reconcile the two purposes). However, she showed me the various artifacts on display, most of which she and her parents and grandparents had found around the area. She explained that she lives there full time, sometimes unable to get out due to snow, and getting by with the limited electrical power provided by several large storage batteries. During the original construction years, the Edison Company developed a spring above the property, so there is plenty of water, which flows by gravity into a large storage tank, then into the house by the same means.

Darinda is knowledgeable, and willing and able to discuss numerous subjects, including railroading, logging, local Native American Culture, and of course the hydro project. I spent a little over an hour chatting with her, then decided to drive the few additional miles to the town of Big Creek. I had been through there several times in the past, although on my first visit I believe I came in from the opposite direction. Highway 168 goes to Huntington Lake, where it officially ends, although a paved road continues into the High Sierra, and leads to two of the Big Creek Project reservoirs, Florence and Edison Lakes. Another road goes west along the north side of Huntington, then drops down into Big Creek, another scenic, narrow, winding road.

There is a power house at Big Creek, the first one built for the project, with large penstocks bringing water down from Huntington. There are also views of Kerckhoff Dome, which seems to stand guard over the town, and a nice waterfall on Big Creek above town.

I had neither time nor desire to drive up it to Huntington, so I took a number of photos, then headed back out to 168 and back down to the valley. About five miles below Shaver is the Pine Ridge area, where the historic Cressman's store has served travelers since 1904.

Below this is what locals call "The Four Lane," the new alignment of 168 that was constructed in the late 1960s. At Prather, a few miles below the Four Lane, Auberry Road comes into the highway on the north side. This is another of the alternate routes, and I took this one back into Clovis and home, a round trip of 108 miles.

--Dick Estel, June 2013
  

Sad 2020 Update: On September 4, 2020, a fire started near the town of Big Creek. Dubbed the Creek Fire, it destroyed the railroad museum and a number of structures in the town. It continued to burn around Pine Ridge, Alder Springs, Shaver Lake and into the forest beyond Huntington. Early in its rampage it burned Cressman's store and many homes in the area. Nearly all residents evacuated safely early in the event. It jumped the San Joaquin River and spread into eastern Madera County. It burned Wagner's Store at Mammoth Pool Reservoir on the San Joaquin, where a number of vacationers had to be rescued by helicopter. It sent smoke down into the valley and across the country. For several days the sky where I live was overcast like a winter day, and it was unhealthy to be outdoors. As I write this on October 29, it has scorched over 360,000 acres, and is the largest single fire in California history. Although containment was expected by October 31, a couple of windy days this week and warming temperatures have added a few thousand acres each of the last two days. The fire's progress was slowed on several fronts as it reached rocky areas with little fuel. The cause is still under investigation, but all indications are that it was not man-made.

Full containment was achieved around New Year's day 2021. At the end the fire was so inactive that the crew monitoring it had been reduced to eight. The final acreage burned was just under 380,000.

Happier 2021 Update: The owners of Cressman's have been busily rebuilding. The gas station is fully operational, and a mini-version of the store is open in a large shipping container. Full reconstruction is in the works. Meanwhile, the investigation of the cause of the fire ended with a finding of "inconclusive."
  

One Last Thing: In the 1960s Sierra historian Hank Johnston wrote an excellent book about the SJ&E railroad and Edison's Big Creek Project. The Railroad that Lighted Southern California is out of print, but you can surely find a copy for less than the $350 one seller is asking on  Amazon.

        
Photos
Click photo for a larger view (pictures open in a new window)
    

Humphrey Station on Tollhouse Road

Rock formations above Tollhouse "Downtown" Tollhouse 
    
View looking down Blue Canyon
from the top of Tollhouse Grade
Buckeye blossoms

An unknown but interesting looking plant

    
Shaver Lake Forest Road 8, the old SJ&E railroad grade Shaver Crossing Station and the dirt road
   
Shaver Crossing Station Darinda Otto, 3rd generation
occupant of Shaver Crossing
Saw blades from lumber operations
    
You can't have a railroad without a few lanterns More lanterns and the all-important coffee pot Assorted blacksmith-forged tools
    
View of high Sierra from the road to Big Creek Penstocks carry water from Huntington
Lake to the Big Creek power house
Big Creek #1
   
Electrical transmission equipment
adjacent to powerhouse
Where the "used" water
leaves the power house

Close up of the water discharge area

   
The little town of Big Creek Kerckhoff Dome, above the town of Big Creek A closer look
Falls on Big Creek, above the town The inevitable closer look Cressman's store at Pine Ridge, near where Tollhouse Road meets the new highway route 
    
Cressman's after the Creek Fire
(ABC 30 Screen Capture)
     
Related Links
   
Shaver Lake Cressman's Big Creek Licensing Process
Town of Big Creek Big Creek Project Images San Joaquin & Eastern Railroad
Shaver Crossing Station Huntington Lake Early Photos of the Area
Florence Lake Edison Lake Edison & Florence Lake Hiking
    

A closer look

 
Travel Reports
   
Before 2002     2002     2003     2004     2005     2006     2007     2008     2009     2010     2011     2012

2013     2014     2015     2016     2017     2018    2019     2020     2021     2022     2023     2024     Other

   
Before 2002
Early Trips Later Trips
Camping Trips Backpacking Trips
Early Stargazer Rock Camps 1961 Monterey Jazz Festival
Bluegrass Odyssey
   
Multi-Year Compilations
Fresno Area Canal Walks Clovis Trail Walks
   
2002
Journey of 2002 (Ohio & Back) Logandale & Utah Parks 2002
   
2003
Arizona & Bluegrass on the River 2003 Grand Canyon & Logandale Bluegrass 2003
Parkfield & Huck Finn 2003 Early Frog Camps (2003-2005)
   
2004
Paso Robles & Parkfield 2004 Road Trip 2004 (Ohio & Back)
Bullhead City Bluegrass, Mesa, Superstition Bluegrass 2004 Bluegrass in the Foothills 2004
   
2005
Arizona-Southern California 2005 Huck Finn Bluegrass 2005
Morro Bay 2005 Stargazer Rock Camp 2005
Parkfield Bluegrass 2005    
   
2006
Huck Finn Bluegrass 2006 Las Vegas Commodore Expo 2006
Rock Creek Non-Camp Stargazer Rock Camp 2006
Parkfield Bluegrass 2006 Oregon 2006
Bluegrass in the Foothills 2006    
   
2007
Bullhead City, Bakersfield, Joshua Tree 2007 Frog Camp 2007
Eastern Sierra Journey 2007 Las Vegas Commodore Expo 2007
Stargazer Rock Camp 2007 Roundup #1
(Mother Lode; Kings Canyon, Yosemite)
Bluegrass in the Foothills 2007    
   
2008
Nevada-Arizona Hockey & Bluegrass 2008 Parkfield Bluegrass 2008
Frog Camp 2008 Las Vegas Commodore Expo 2008
Stargazer Rock Camp 2008 Bluegrass in the Foothills 2008
Hobbs Grove Festival 2008     
   
2009
Roundup 2009
Las Vegas, Mariposa, Table Mountain, Orange County
Frog Camp 2009 Southern Journey 2009
Parkfield Bluegrass 2009 Stargazer Rock Camp 2009
Bluegrass Tour 2009
Brown Barn, Plymouth, Hobbs Grove
Hensley Lake Camp
   
2010
Mojave National Preserve & Havasu Bluegrass Roundup 2010
Hensley Reservoir, Mojave Preserve 2 & 3
Parkfield Bluegrass 2010 Lake Almanor & Mt. Lassen 2010
Las Vegas Expo Summergrass
   Brown Barn, Watsonville & Hobbs Grove
   
2011
Roundup 2011
Mariposa, Hensley, Table Mountain
Frog Camp 2011
Parkfield Bluegrass 2011 Frank, Pat, Dick & Ted's Excellent Adventure
Northern Coast Journey 2011 Las Vegas Commodore Expo 2011
Good Old Fashioned Bluegrass Festival Chilkoot & Stargazer Rock Camp
Kings River & Brown Barn Bluegrass Festivals Hensley Camp 2011
    
2012 
Parkfield Bluegrass 2012 Four Squaw Leap Hikes
Northern Coast Journey 2012 Las Vegas Commodore Expo 2012
Stargazer Rock Camp 2012 Bluegrass in the Foothills 2012
A 3-Event Weekend
Farmer's Market, Kings River Bluegrass, Antique Fair
2012 Las Vegas CAN AM Hockey Challenge
Fall Hikes
Finegold Trail; Bower Cave
Into Los Gatos Canyon
  
2013
Silver Stick Tournament - Canada Sierra Foothills - Winter 2013
Finegold Trailhead, Hensley Lake, San Joaquin Gorge
Death Valley - Alabama Hills - Whitney Portal Sierra Foothills - Spring 2013
San Joaquin Gorge Hike, Big Creek Drive
Parkfield Bluegrass 2013 Shaver Crossing Station & Big Creek
Lake Almanor & Caribou Crossroads Mono Hot Springs
Good Old Fashioned Bluegrass Festival A Wedding in Duluth
Sequoia Park Hiking Roundup 2013
Kings River Bluegrass, Buena Vista Peak Hike, Hensley Lake Camp, North Fork Mono Museum, White Rock Road, Hockey in Denver
     
2014
2014 Winter Hikes
Millerton South Bay Trail, Clovis Trail, Hite's Cove Trail
San Joaquin Gorge Campout
Colorado Springs Hockey Tournament Lake Havasu Bluegrass
2014 Spring Hikes
Stockton Creek Preserve, San Joaquin River Trail, San Joaquin Gorge, Millerton Lake, Sycamore Creek, Buena Vista Peak Again
NORCAL Hockey Playoffs and Santa Cruz Visit
Greeley Hill Road Trip Parkfield Bluegrass 2014
Journey of 2014 Journey of 2014 Photos
Nelder Grove Hikes 2014 Sentinel Dome Hike
2014 Fall & Winter Hikes
San Joaquin River Trail South & North, Red Rock Canyon Nevada, San Joaquin South Again
California Flat Campout
Snow Day with the  Upshaw's   
 
2015
Rambler Hikes 2015 Part 1 Rambler Hikes 2015 Part 2
Adventures of 2015 - February to May
(Goofy Smith Flat, Coast Redwoods & Big Sur, Pine Flat, Finegold Trail, Edison Point Trail, Nelder Grove)
Adventures of 2015 - June to December
(Lewis Creek Trail, Kaiser Pass, Kaiser Pass Again, Taft Point, Kings River Bluegrass, Shaver Logging Road, San Joaquin River Trail, Lewis S Eaton Trail, San Joaquin River Gorge, Thanksgiving at the Gorge)
Lake Tahoe & Virginia City Parkfield Bluegrass 2015
Colorado Springs Cousin Convention 2015 Las Vegas Commodore Expo 2015
Stargazer Rock Camp 2015 Grand Canyon & Arches National Parks
  
2016
Adventures of 2016 Part 1 Rambler Hikes 2016 Page 1
Adventures of 2016 Part 2 Rambler Hikes 2016 Page 2
Adventures of 2016 Part 3 Rambler Hikes 2016 Page 3
Adventures of 2016 Part 4 A Pennsylvania Adventure
Adventures of 2016 Part 5 Parkfield Bluegrass 2016
Adventures of 2016 Part 6 Las Vegas Commodore Expo 2016
Adventures of 2016 Part 7 Stargazer Rock Camp 2016
     
2017
Adventures of 2017 Part 1 Rambler Hikes 2017 Page 1
Adventures of 2017 Part 2 Rambler Hikes 2017 Page 2
Adventures of 2017 Part 3 Rambler Hikes 2017 Page 3
Adventures of 2017 Part 4 Hiking and Hockey
Adventures of 2017 Part 5 Lake Almanor
Adventures of 2017 Part 6 Northern California Redwood Hike
Parkfield Bluegrass 2017 Stargazer Rock Camp 2017
Travel Blog 2017 (an experiment) Zion and Bryce Canyon National Parks
  
2018
Adventures of 2018 Part 1 Rambler Hikes 2018 Page 1
Adventures of 2018 Part 2 Rambler Hikes 2018 Page 2
Adventures of 2018 Part 3 Rambler Hikes 2018 Page 3
Adventures of 2018 Part 4 Parkfield Bluegrass 2018
Adventures of 2018 Part 5 Northern California Journey 2018
Adventures of 2018 Part 6
  
2019
Adventures of 2019 Part 1 Rambler Hikes 2019 Page 1
Adventures of 2019 Part 2 Rambler Hikes 2019 Page 2
Utah National Parks Rambler Hikes 2019 Page 3
Adventures of 2019 Part 3 Parkfield Bluegrass 2019
Adventures of 2019 Part 4 Adventures of 2019 Part 5
   
2020
Adventures of 2020 Part 1 Adventures of 2020 Part 5
Adventures of 2020 Part 2 Adventures of 2020 Part 6
Adventures of 2020 Part 3 Adventures of 2020 Part 7
Adventures of 2020 Part 4 Rambler Hikes 2020 Page 1
  
2021
Adventures of 2021 Part 1 Adventures of 2021 Part 5
Adventures of 2021 Part 2
Adventures of 2021 Part 3 Rambler Hikes 2021 Page 1
Adventures of 2021 Part 4 Rambler Hikes 2021 Page 2
 
2022
Adventures of 2022 Part 1 Rambler Hikes 2022 Page 1
Adventures of 2022 Part 2 Rambler Hikes 2022 Page 2
Adventures of 2022 Part 3 Rambler Hikes 2022 Page 3
Adventures of 2022 Part 4 Utah Parks
  
2023
Adventures of 2023 Page 1 Rambler Hikes 2023 Page 1
Adventures of 2023 Page 2 Rambler Hikes 2023 Page 2
Dinosaur National Monument Rambler Hikes 2023 Page 3
Adventures of 2023 Page 3 Rambler Hikes 2023 Page 4
  
2024
Adventures of 2024 Page 1 Rambler Hikes 2024 Page 1
Adventures of 2024 Page 2 Rambler Hikes 2024 Page 2
Mendocino Coast Rambler Hikes 2024 Page 3
  
Other
Fresno Area Canal Walks Clovis Trail Walks
Butch's Blog Walker Family Trips
Parkfield Earthquake Kim & Morgan Brown Trips & Photos
Travel Report Menu Estel Home Page
Photo Albums Slide Shows
Laurie Lewis' High Sierra Hikes Email
     
 

All photos copyright © 2002-2020 by Dick Estel or credited photographers. Permission granted for personal use only; commercial use prohibited.

Updated September 2, 2021